kseriesparts 6 speed kit

[Ba82Ep3]

Yep... should be a double cone synchro too. A double cone synchro will only work with a double cone gear... you cant interchange a triple cone synchro into a double cone gear... even if the ratio is the same... the gear is designed differently. Just pointing this out to save potential time of assembly headaches.

[Deadphishy]

Thanks,

Yes the Si 6th gear that i am using is a double cone gear. I picked up a new 2nd gear synchro from synchrotech for 2nd gear. that is a triple cone synchro. I am having a little trouble getting the counter shaft bolt loose. I know it is reverse threaded, but it is giving me a hard time.

And just for a good time i put in the new reverse lever.

[Ba82Ep3]

Make sure your 1/2 sync sleeve isnt notched and ate up (its also reverse gear). If the sleeve is fuct... replacing the synchro by itself will do very little to help you out. Theres a few pix on the build thread that will show you what it SHOULDNT look like.

The reverse thread bolt, use a bench vise and two pieces of wood to hold the countershaft, and an impact gun to do work. By hand will be frustrating... but can be done. If you dont have a 14mm socket and an impact but have a 14mm allen key... use a 2.5lb hammer to smack the allen handle... if its too short for leverage, add an appropriate sized box end wrench to the allen key and smack that bish. That should get ya done right...

[Ba82Ep3]

Also... dont forget to install your spring rings. Synchros and rings for 1-2 gears are larger than synchros and rings for 3-6th gears.

EP3 trans 1-2 gears/syncs are trip cone... 3-5th are dub cone. RSX-S 6 speeds and ITR trans are trip cone 1-6th gears/syncs.

[Deadphishy]

The gear that i have is a double cone. The synchro fits on it perfectly. I was able to get the bolt off, however now the bearing won't come off. I will have to work on that tomorrow. I am looking pretty close at my second gear and i am a little worried about it. I don't drive that aggressive, but it does have some miles.

[Deadphishy]

This would be a lot easier if i was just adding the 6th gear. I Don't have a press so now i am going to have to find someone to help be press off the gears on the counter shaft so i can get to the second gear syncro. It looks like the second gear has a little wear on it so I'm deciding if a new gear set is worth the extra 300 cost.

[Ba82Ep3]

I know it can be a pain. if you cant find anyone locally you can trust to do the work... LMK and ill do it for ya. Just pay for shipping both ways and ill take care of ya.

Honestly though... i really think you could pick up a press and bearing separator and do the work yourself. Its less than $200 in tools...

[Deadphishy]

I think my dads shop has a press that I can use. So I might be alright. I'm putting the project on hold for a short bit. In 60 days I start getting a very Heavy discount on parts so I have to hold off in buying things.

[Ba82Ep3]

Roger that. LMK if i can help out tho...

[1mp4ct]

Just posted this on cep3 but figured since your pretty experienced you may be able to help me out with a couple things?

So I followed all the guides, and the package contents on Kseriesparts.com, and now that I'm assembling everything I'm curious why part 23641-PPP-000 Single cone synchro is listed as a needed part. I have everything together, and this syncro is already in my transmission...

Does anyone know the point of buying a new one? FYI, the base transmission I'm working with is absolutely mint!
With that said, the syncro I have looks fine and I can't tell a difference, and wouldn't mind returning the new one for the $30 I spent on it..

Another question I have (and there seems to be no info on what so ever) is the new needle bearings I bought, 91102-RZF-006(there are 3 of them on main shaft) are all this plastic housing, but the ones that were on my trans have a metal housing holding the needles in place. The new TSX 6th needle bearing is also a metal housing.. At first I thought Honda redesigned them for a good reason, but then seeing the metal one for the 6th makes me wonder if I should just keep the old metal needle bearings and bring back the new plastic ones.
Does anyone know which of these bearings are better? Keep in mind my old ones look and operate perfectly.

[newep]

If the syncro was fine and your comfortable leaving the old one in, then leave it in. Personally i would keep the metal cased needle bearings.
Make sure you measure the shims on both ends of the shaft. If they're out, you will have issues.

[usedep3]

I reused the syncro that was already in my 5 speed when I did my tsx 6th conversion..i regretted it the next day. The car keep popping out of 6th when I would cruise on the highway. The $30 you 'waste' might be worth not having to worry about that one gear and dropping the tranny again.

This was just my experience and may not be the norm.

[1mp4ct]

Thank you for the feedback guys!

I've been measuring everything with feeler gauges and my micrometer. Everything checks out so far. I'm making the Honda tool that's used to check thrust clearance, as well as finishing up making an arbor press from scratch.

I'm still really curious why Honda would make the needle bearings with a plastic housing now, and if they are any better/worse. I want to get the main shaft back together soon as I will be able to press on the 6th to the CS soon (with the press almost being done). It will also help me to determine if I pull ALL of the gears off the CS to replace the needle bearing (not going to if the metal ones are ok, because they are in such good shape there is more risk in messing up the shaft than leaving the bearings in..)

usedep3, when you reopened your trans and changed the syncro, did it fix the issue. I'm assuming I am asking an obvious question here, but I just want to be sure it was just that or something else you found too. Was your syncro noticeably worn compared to the new one?

[1mp4ct]

Does anyone know what number 11 shim in this diagram is actually used for?
http://cdn.revolutionparts.com/index...5e0&f=1.7&tn=n

Once reassembled, I notice that it merely fills the gap in the 6th gear between it and the ball bearing.. since neither piece can move/rotate, and both are pressed on and cannot move, what is the need for this shim to basically rattle around in between the two??

the manual calls for .04-.1mm clearance between the shim and the bearing. Since putting mine together and fully pressing the bearing, I have 0 space between the two. The shim (AG 1.39mm from my 5 spd) fits and fills the gap perfectly. Since the manual calls for there to be a gap here, I need to get a 1.35mm shim to create the minimum clearance of .04mm. I will be buying this shim just to make it the way it's spec'd, but I seriously cannot wrap my head around the necessity of it..or why there is a need for one anyways (unless it is to ensure clearance of the outer part of 6th and the bearing since the gear has an indent close to the shaft that the shim fits in.. idk.)

Can anyone explain this to me?