Ha your muffler has the same Tilt as mine, you know an ep3 is driven hard when lol
Hasbro what are your thoughts on the steering arm relocation brackets?
one thing says that they help bump/torque steer, and one thing says they make it worse.
got any experience on the subject?, I dont entirely buy into that "solidworks modeling says their bad" thread over on clubrsx.
you tune your suspension, what do you think?
Huh, maybe that's it. I won't let it bother me anymore!Originally Posted by Bwek
I don't really have an opinion, sorry. I learned enough about it to realize it doesn't affect me. I'd ask SHG_EasyE. Iirc, he had a good answer. I don't think he's in favor of them.
Decided to completely pull off the rear plastic bumper as it's worthless excess weight and creates stupid drag - sort of like a parachute. Eventually the metal bumper is getting mounted from the interior for better weight placement and to be out of the way of the final rear end. In the mean time I'll just re-spray all the bits and pieces black. If it's too hideous the bumper will go back on but will be cut much higher. Or maybe a chicken wire mesh piece temporarily. I haven't explained the rear body work yet - will get into it some other time. I'm somewhat reluctant to do too much aero under there as it can really create some weird downforce release problems at the least desirable time. Diffusers, unless carefully designed, can be lethal (track diffusers should be no more than 2" from the ground and street versions should be higher and more moderate in design, etc.). Maybe an adjustable one with street and track mode...although track mode requires extensive front and side body work....
Last edited by Hasbro; 07-29-2013 at 09:17 PM.
Just saw this and thought it might give you some ideas. I don't have any info on what kind of flares they are but they look like the universal ones...
Thanks for sharing. That looks like a fun EP! Bet it could use a wing, though. I did consider that type as the primary flare but the fender is flaring so well that they aren't needed with the current front set up.
Nothing new. Tried to install the rear R strut? bar but need to find the bolts that tie it to the chassis near where the rear seat bolted in. Forgot about them. They must be in the attic so this little job could happen this weekend or in a year. I've already had it for a couple of years...
Started reading Chassis Engineering by Herb Adams again. 1993 edition and nothing about front wheel drive. Time for a new book. A little trivia; some old notes I'd written on a page about vertical load vs. cornering efficiency stated that lightening the EP by 500 lbs. would theoretically increase cornering gs by .12. I had also confabulated that a 92 Civic has another .13 gs more. Wow. Don't mess with a 92 Civic. And that's just the weight difference, not weight placement.
Last edited by Hasbro; 08-01-2013 at 12:16 AM.
This is a great aero comparo (see what I did there). #6 is the style that I will be applying in a milder guise and it's nice to see a well executed computer generated comparison to back it up. Slight updates to the model will increase it's efficiency. Such as stretching front closer to the tires and adding canards such as #4 below.
Edit; started getting back into aero after about a 3 or 4 year hiatus from the subject. It's advancing so fast! The internal ducting is just amazing. I want to utilize this technology but at the same time maintain a clean attractive look (with simple lines) suitable for both street and track. Pursuing aero can make for a very busy design. That's also another reason to do as much aero down low to utilize underneath the car for a more aesthetically unobtrusive look. Less fins and tails.
Last edited by Hasbro; 08-14-2013 at 01:56 AM.
If I could find this aero kit I would do it in a heart beat.
Hope it motivates you.
That's one of the nicest kits I've seen for the EP but not my style. I figured with some sandpaper, Bondo, and paint it would look more like this;If I could find this aero kit I would do it in a heart beat.
Hope it motivates you.
Edit; I'm really digging the two EPs pictured in posts 184 & 187. Those greys are sharp and even the green wheels fit. EPs are begging for flares.Thinking perhaps, though, that the canards on both are incorrectly shaped and angled counterproductively.
Last edited by Hasbro; 08-04-2013 at 04:37 AM.
FYI. Evidently this is the first wing designed for the under 140 mph crowd. A lot of people use Nascar wings or show wings. This is a prototype from 949 Racing and has been lowering times at tracks by about 2 seconds less than the other wings. Impressive. I think they will be around $1300.00 and will be available in 4 or 5 months.
Flyin' Miata LS1 motor with 10" Hoosiers. I refer to Miatas so much because a bazillion are raced and there's a ton of grass roots development with them. Not the same wing as above.
Last edited by Hasbro; 08-05-2013 at 02:46 AM.
Wow nice work!
Hope everyone is well.
Starting to finally get going again although it's still too hot for much garage work. Making some nice progress, though. How about a 2.4 lb. battery? Some more weight loss off the front, about 6 more whp (Reflash soon), ample use of Cloroplast, 1/4" more drop without affecting travel, and a bunch of other stuff. Still need to smooth and paint the flared fenders but they are working well. I'll keep quiet for a while longer until things really shape up.
For the hundredth time, the RA1s are brilliant street tires! So easy to control. Corners are so outrageous. -2.5 camber is the minimum suggested and I'm a little above that front and rear plus the front caster.
Last edited by Hasbro; 09-03-2013 at 06:22 AM.
How much did this battery run ya and where do I get one? I need to loose some more weight off the front too.
By the way I'm going to take out the carpet and sound deadening soon. Ill let ya know how much of a pain in the ass it is.
The last 3 or 4 pages of this thread has bits of useful info re. lithium iron; http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...k/54159/page1/
I went with this one; http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html
Removal of stock battery, it's brackets, and installing a cai will pull about 40lbs. off the front left side.
Have fun with the carpet/sound deadening. Carpet's easy. Use cardboard pieces to shore up the dry ice and some material will lift off by itself. I've only done some in the hatch.
Edit, 9/5; I also bought this charger; http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dproduct=18066
If I run into any trouble with the lithium battery I can fall back on my Odysey 680. Odyseys can sit without losing a charge for something like a year and I have a charger made just for it so it can stay hooked up to it.
Oh, I don't believe the above thread mentions it but these newer lithium iron batteries have a chip in them that prevents them overheating and catching on fire, a problem that earlier lithiums had. Some have completely destroyed cars due to fire.
Gotta pull 100 more lbs minimum before winter. Put the EP in the 2250 to 2300 lb. range....
Waiting on the initial box to arrive from Hondata...
Looking around for a Fiat X19 or early Miata, preferably an X. Hoping to trade out horticulture work or a monthly payment plan with the seller so the car would have to be local. Want to get either one down to 1600 lbs. and autox the hell out of it but keep it barely street legal. Then, when it's time to put a K24 frank in the EP, the K20a3 can go in the Fiat. By then it will have at least 180 hp so that'll be fun. There is a dude that has been running a highly prepared non street legal Miata here for about 20 years and has taken it to nationals a bunch. He's selling it CHEAP but hasn't been able to sell it as it is so extreme ( no windshield etc.). I'll bet he might just deal with me as he needs the room for a newer race car...
Not many people do it but you can use a sheet of plastic to replace the doors on both cars... just thinking, rambling.
Edit; for the more feint of heart that can't handle using a "hobby" battery, here's one that makes more sense. http://www.atbatt.com/product/24503/...3-bs12/battery
Cornering
I keep forgetting to log this; before the present -2.5 camber or more on all corners (numbers keep changing) I finally had the chance to take my fastest corner on the street at night when the area was vacant - as in desert vacant. About -2.1 front, RA1s at 36 psi, -2.4 rear, Kumhos around 34 psi. Hit the non curbed intersection at about 55mph in 3rd, smacked into 2nd right at start of turn. no brakes, as is my custom. Tires nice and warm. Car breezed through turn (I was not breezing), it's butt doing a very mild slide. Mild throttle to full at/after apex.
It was the first time the EP felt like a track car and was so predictable. What a feeling.
I haven't pressed the added camber on the street and not sure I want to as it will let go more suddenly and that is not street driving. The autox will be there for that. But from now on I can just hit a corner at silly speeds without braking and then accelerate right through the WHOLE corner and know it will be very stable and controllable. Note to self; warm the tires!
What's next
After the suspension is done the K20a3 will get an exhaust and go from Reflash to K Pro. And weight should be around 2250 - 2300. Say within a year at the latest, hopefully by next spring.
After that, slowly do body mods while searching for a Fiat X1/9 with a solid chassis. And gut the crap out of it, even the windshield. Get it to about 1500 -1600 lbs. but still street legal with a helmet. Drive the Fiat 1300cc or 1500cc motor while getting a K series ready for it and put 10" slicks on the rear. Have been planning to put the K20a3 into the X1/9 and a K24 into the EP but maybe leave the a3 in the EP for a while and build a 9,??? rpm K20a2 for the X. That just sounds so right. 6 or 7 lbs/hp.Getting repetitious but just tweeking thoughts.
Last edited by Hasbro; 09-08-2013 at 01:10 AM.
Above continued
This is similar to my next project, except much more the track rat.
http://xwebforums.org/showthread.php?t=22130
The wing on the Miata even has effective uprights... and the spill damns are massive. Definitely unappealing... but clearly functional. That Miata has gotta be one helluva ride.FYI. Evidently this is the first wing designed for the under 140 mph crowd. A lot of people use Nascar wings or show wings. This is a prototype from 949 Racing and has been lowering times at tracks by about 2 seconds less than the other wings. Impressive. I think they will be around $1300.00 and will be available in 4 or 5 months.
Flyin' Miata LS1 motor with 10" Hoosiers. I refer to Miatas so much because a bazillion are raced and there's a ton of grass roots development with them. Not the same wing as above.
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