k24 build thread mugen twinloop vs 3" vs k20a and much more.

[urthworm]

Ive had alot of different setups on my ep since buying it back in 2005. After looking thru alot of old pics i realized I have alot of info that may be of some value to you ephatchers.

2006-2007 My first setup was on my stock k20a3. It was a custom turbo kit with a turbonetic t3/t4 60 trim, 2.5inch down pipe to a straight 3" (no cat) and a flowmaster muff, full race intercooler. tuned on kpro.




Here is the dyno on 10psi


Here is another dyno graph with a cheap bottle neck ebay intercooler.. notice how the power would drop after full boost hit. As soon as i installed the full race intercooler boost went from 10psi to 14psi without making any adjustments to the boost controller.


Here is one more graph to show you how different dynos read power. The solid red line is with the same tune as the first dyno graph above and the red dotted line is after the new tune.. notice the huge difference in numbers from the two different dynos. yet the car was on the exact same setups.

2008-2009 Next setup: I had my block full built by erl perfomance. Manly rods, je 9:1 pistons (heat coated). K20a2 head, 1mm over valves, brian crower valve springs/retainers, stock cams, erl modified s2000 oil pump. Upgraded my turbo kit to a peakboost manifold and peakboost 3in downpipe and a garret gt3076r.




Here is the dyno graph on 10psi


At the time i couldnt find anyone in my area to tune this car to its potential. And after ALOT of problems from tuning/tuners I sold this whole setup for a k20a.

I tried alot of different setups with the k20a. I raced the hell out of it for almost 3 years with zero problems. I took a 100 shot to put her down..

2009-2012 k20a, pwjdm intake, buddy club race header, mugen twinloop, kpro, rrc intake manifold, and blueprint stage two cams (old version)

dynod at 212whp 138trq (dyno chart further down)


had itbs for a week or so but new mexico is to freaking hot for these.. didnt run good at all



2012 current setup. After blowing up the type r (not gonna say i did it on purpose but i did have a 2.4 block just sitting in my garage Oh and it only took one night, blew while tuning on the 4th pull) i started work on the 2.4. The k20a head was still salvagable. It already had blueprint valve spring/retainers and cams. The valves were bent so i installed blueprint .5mm oversized. The block was a k24a4 i put forged i beam rods, 87.5mm 12.5:1 compression pistons and had everything balanced. Fluidamp crank pulley, and k20a2 oil pump. For bolt ons i stayed with the rrc manifold and i have both a pwjdm intake and a hybrid racing cai. Buddy club race header and both the mugen twinloop for quite time and a custom 3" for ricer time. Hybrid racing 70mm throttle body and misimoto radiator/ thermo for keepin things nice and cool.





Ok now for the dyno. The blue is the k24 with the 3in. The red is the k24 with the twinloop. and the green is the type r with twinloop, stage 2 cams, stock but ported throttle body. all on the same dyno but not the same day.


Couple pics of the car




The hybrid cai does fit our cars with alil adjusting.. my tires barely hit it on full right turns so i added an elbow to it





All work and tuning is now done by me and two friends.
Wont have it any other way after all the problems with the turbo setups.
Hope you enjoy the info.