What could this be?

[larryo108]

Well the other day, I noticed some clunking from my front end. I went about making sure that the coil over perches had worked themselves loose. They hadn't which was good news. I began checking everything else to make sure nothing else was loose. I found the lower strut bolts on the driver side were loose, so I tightened them up. Unfortunately, I found grease everywhere. I am not sure where it is coming from, so I would appreciate any help. What should I look for?






The car has almost 190,000 miles. So I am also debating about keeping the car or cut bait and run. If I keep it I am considering replacing the front hubs, control arms bushings, wheel studs (with ARP extended), etc. Is this going overboard? Worth it? Opinions are welcome. Thanks in advance.

[303EP]

Might be a crack in the cv axle boot...could explain the grease everywhere

[usedep3]

Might be a crack in the cv axle boot...could explain the grease everywhere

this would be my guess too

[mitchlikesbikes]

this would be my guess too

x3

[T_Virus]

Might be a crack in the cv axle boot...could explain the grease everywhere

this would be my guess too

x3

x4. This has happen to me before too...

[larryo108]

Thank you all. So is it just the boot that should be replaced? Or the entire shaft?

[Canuck Civic]

Thank you all. So is it just the boot that should be replaced? Or the entire shaft?

Depends if the cv joint is shot then the whole axle If it is a small tear and the inside looks clean just repack with new grease and put a new boot on.

[tinman5]

Verify that it is grease and not oil.
Grease=axle boot
Oil=blown strut.
Hydraulic juice by default would be a leak in the brake system.

[larryo108]

I don't believe it was a blown strut as the grease was confind to the hub area. The BC's were dry as a bone. I am just trying to determine now how much I want to repair. I had thought of replacing both axles, control arms, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc, etc to freshen it all up a bit. The car has 190,000 miles on it. I am just not sure I want to drop that much money on the car. Any opinions on that?

[tinman5]

Since I do the majority of the work myself and will usually only farm out real specialty or tedious work, I feel the investment is worth it. But then I dont own nor buy new cars so I have I different mindset going in than most.
But just for a break down on what my cost came out to recently:
Energy Suspension bushing kit about $120
Timken wheel bearings (front) $80 'ish
Moog/National ball joints $65 Moog has grease zerk National does not.
Tie rod ends $30
So I am out about $300 in parts. Local air conditioning/axle place charges $50 per axle to re-boot (carry in axles)
Neighborhood machine shop,owned by a cool as shit old school lifelong resident in the same location for almost 50 friggin' years charged me $80 to press in everything needed pressing. So I am out just under $400 and an honest days work. I feel a worthwhile investment as I have no plans to sell my car and enjoy driving my li'l Civic very much.
Obviously prices will vary and I will not pretend to know your agenda for your car but that gives you an idea. The average shop will charge from $60 to double that an hour for labor.
Pleasant motoring and Godspeed to you sir.

[larryo108]

Thanks tinman. I think I am going to have to this route. Here is what I am thinking. Any thoughts?

Hardrace suspension bushing kit all around
Hardrace roll center adjusters (ball joint replacements because I plan to go a little lower)
Hardrace swaybar endlinks front and rear
New wheel bearings with ARP extended wheel studs all around
Already have new OEM tierod ends sitting at home.

I will repair the front axle (boot or whole axle) and also thinking of doing Wilwood front brakes with some Hawk HPS rear pads (rears need to be replaced).

Am I going overboard? I am also concerned I would be able to finish all of this in one weekend.

[tinman5]

Not familiar with Hardrace products, but after 10 years the stock bushings should at least be looked at. Particularly the front control arm bushings. Extended wheel studs, not a fan as they are so friggin long. I run the Muteki 48mm lug nuts and it just looked silly with an inch of wheel stud protruding from that. I cut the fronts down about an 1.25" so as to run up to a 10mm spacer safely if needed and left the rears alone. Looking back now, I would buy the Ichiba extended studs in a 50mm length.

As for the Wilwood kit....not sure yet myself. I drive my car like an old lady 90% of the time, it's the 10% of the time the brakes are questionable. Something just doesn't jive with everything else. I am running Type S blanks and calipers, Russel lines, Castrol LM GT fluid and a Type S master cylinder on the stock booster. I use Wagner Ceramics for daily pads and will switch to Hawk HPS when its time for some tomfoolery. I was having issues with the ABS pulsing which became even more annoying with the bigger brakes. I ended up swapping out the control box with an 05 model and that resolved that problem for the most part. This set up is adequate but the ABS becomes more noticeable going downhill as opposed to hard braking on level ground. And by that I am refering to the pulsing.

As for the installment of your list there, once everything is in your hands, with the appropriate tools of course, you can have everything done in a day working leisurely. Just keep in mind when farming out work, especially on weekends, that you contact the shop/business in advance and politely confirm their work load. I make it a point to show up at opening for any work being done on a Saturday morning and usually breakfast tacos or a box of donuts help grease the wheels of service.

[larryo108]

Thanks again tinman. I actually took some time this weekend to work on the car and am now more confused about the gunk in the front tirewell. It is a thick axle grease consistency, but I could not find a rip in the boot. I would expect brake fluid to not be so thick and chunky and I saw no signs of wear on the brake line. The struts is clean and dry with the exception of the thick grease below the steering arm. I am more confused than ever. No matter as I have pretty much decided to purchase a new car. Just not willing to continue to throw money at this problem. Thanks for all of your help and input. It is much appreciated.

[tinman5]

Damn. The only other things packed with grease are the balljoint and rod end. Maybe a couple tablespoons worth of grease at that.
Shame about the EP but good luck with your bew acquisition.