What upgrades to K24A2 for more power?

[Slip_Angle]

Hey - Fair enough. I'm giving you direct experience from me and others that have tried it for themselves...

Did the tuners you spoke with actually test these specific combinations? I have almost the exact setup you do and those were the results. I even tuned my own car on the DynoJet and operated the Dyno so I do understand the tuning process well.

If your mind is set and you want to go through the experience yourself, then I would at least suggest you get the RRC over the RBC since it's a better version of the RBC and sets you up for a ton of power with a turbo.

[ryboto]

I can't speak to what these guys have seen, but it's what they're recommending...maybe they're experience has been with aftermarket cams..can't say.

I'd rather not spend that kind of money. I read so many people boasting about the RBC, but no one has dyno sheets of one vs the other, or if they do it's with the stock VTC gear, or some other piece of the puzzle that isn't the same as what I've got set up. I may just save my money and just add the VTC.. Beyond the VTC gear then, is there no other upgrades I could make to the K24A2 that are good bang for buck? A thermal insulator IMG? The Zerg & P2R are on ebay for ~$30..

edit RBB V RBC - then I find a thread like this where TalonXRacer chimes in....
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...ons&highlight=

and a few posts where guys say they made more power and torque over the RBB with the RBC...but then someone suggested, maybe the tune used too much cam advance...so...now I think the cheapest way to go about things - swap VTC, see if I can benefit from cam advance, and if I do, save RBC/TB bore for FI, or cam upgrades if I ever do that...

[Slip_Angle]

Ya, the thermal insulator will keep the heat away from the manifold so you'll see less heat soak. Though, if you're running an SRI it's likely not going to help that much.

If you don't have a tune that has been done specific to your setup, that would be a good investment. e-tune / road tuning is great and will get you 95% to maximum power. If you want to spend more, goto a good dyno tuner for that extra few %

What tune are you using?

[ryboto]

Ya, the thermal insulator will keep the heat away from the manifold so you'll see less heat soak. Though, if you're running an SRI it's likely not going to help that much.

If you don't have a tune that has been done specific to your setup, that would be a good investment. e-tune / road tuning is great and will get you 95% to maximum power. If you want to spend more, goto a good dyno tuner for that extra few %

What tune are you using?

Well, on top of the vtc and IMG I would also grab a CAI. I guess it's a smarter starting point from a $$ point of view versus grabbing an RBC.

I am actually getting an etune now...but I'm not impressed by it. Getting some second opinions. After it's done I may visit a shop through a friend for a true tune.

[Slip_Angle]

Who's doing the e-tune? If you don't want to say publicly send me a PM. Send me the cal and I can have a look if you want. Also, if you want my calibration, I'm happy to share it...

[ryboto]

So, will I need to modify/move anything to get the CAI to fit? About to buy one, and just bought a thermal IMG.

[Slip_Angle]

I don't know that anything other than a custom CAI will fit but maybe someone else has found one that does. I custom made the one I had on.

[differentK]

if you are using the RBB manifold- no off the shelf CAI will fit for you. come to think of it- the RBC will also give a bit of a fitment issue as well due to the slanted angle of the inlet... but anything can fit with a little bit of imagination. do you still have the PRB manifold from your a3?

edit: inbox cleared BTW

[ryboto]

if you are using the RBB manifold- no off the shelf CAI will fit for you. come to think of it- the RBC will also give a bit of a fitment issue as well due to the slanted angle of the inlet... but anything can fit with a little bit of imagination. do you still have the PRB manifold from your a3?

edit: inbox cleared BTW

Didn't you suggest the Type-S CAI would fit fine?
edit-nm, saw that was suggesting the RBC. As for the PRB, I'm going to stick with the RBB since I don't have the PRB tapped, and I just don't want to deal with that unless I can bring it with me to a dyno and compare the two. Now I just have to decide between a custom CAI, or Slip_Angle's airbox experiment...the former would be much easier and faster to implement...

[lemonhead228]

are you looking for peak power?

A popular thing ppl are doing on k20a.org is **custom 3.5" intake**, 70/74mm tb, RBC/RRC, hondata IMG.

relocate the battery and put the filter behind the headlight or grill.

a PRB head can gain 20+ whp. slap some cams you'll hit 250+ whp with it.

3" exhaust would open up some extra power for sure.

[ryboto]

are you looking for peak power?

A popular thing ppl are doing on k20a.org is **custom 3.5" intake**, 70/74mm tb, RBC/RRC, hondata IMG.

relocate the battery and put the filter behind the headlight or grill.

a PRB head can gain 20+ whp. slap some cams you'll hit 250+ whp with it.

3" exhaust would open up some extra power for sure.

I think what I'm going to do for now, is a custom intake, keep the stock throttle body, RBB, use a thermal IMG and install the 50*VTC. I wont go through the trouble/cost of doing a TB bore until I decide to upgrade cams, and when/if I ever do that, I'd look into an RBC/RRC. If I have the extra cash to do something like that, I'd probably also drop in an Odyssey battery and relocate it.

[lemonhead228]

I think what I'm going to do for now, is a custom intake, keep the stock throttle body, RBB, use a thermal IMG and install the 50*VTC. I wont go through the trouble/cost of doing a TB bore until I decide to upgrade cams, and when/if I ever do that, I'd look into an RBC/RRC. If I have the extra cash to do something like that, I'd probably also drop in an Odyssey battery and relocate it.

You don't need cams to run the RBC and 70mm tb. You see gains with the stock block. You can also opt for a z1/z3 intake cam(keep Tsx exhaust cam) and see better gains up top.

The rbb design is long narrow runners which is for low- mid range. The design of the RBC/RRC is short big runners which are for top end. That being said the RBB produces AROUND 10 wtp over the RBC/RRC from 2-6k. By switching to the RBC/RRC you'll lose that mid range torque and gain 5-10+ whp up top depending on mods.

The k24a2 is a mid range motor that's why Honda pair the RBB to it. Like talonXracer say "k24 are the torque monster of k series"
If you like the torque(like me) run a 70mm tb with the rbb(bore match) and 3.5" intake

[ryboto]

The k24a2 is a mid range motor that's why Honda pair the RBB to it. Like talonXracer say "k24 are the torque monster of k series"
If you like the torque(like me) run a 70mm tb with the rbb(bore match) and 3.5" intake

I would do exactly that if I could find someone around here that could bore them as cheaply as maxbore...otherwise, this is my DD, can't be without it. Could potentially buy an RBB and extra throttle body....

[lemonhead228]

I would do exactly that if I could find someone around here that could bore them as cheaply as maxbore...otherwise, this is my DD, can't be without it. Could potentially buy an RBB and extra throttle body....

Instead of buying another rbb get a RBC. They go for around 150-200. Karcept adaptor is like 70 iirc.

3" exhaust would show some good gains also

[ryboto]

Instead of buying another rbb get a RBC. They go for around 150-200. Karcept adaptor is like 70 iirc.

3" exhaust would show some good gains also

Well, I have a 2.5'', no sense in replacing the exhaust now that I've spent the time and money on this one. I have the karcept adapter, RBB wouldn't work without it. I don't see the point in the RBC if I don't buy new cams.