Reply With QuoteDon't bother with the front progress sway bar your stock will do just fine. You need a bigger rear sway to help get rid of understeer.
Okay guys i've got a 2002 EP3 and i want to do a full or at least 70 to 80 percent suspension set up.
So Far Bought:
Koni Sport Shocks; Front and Rear
Blox Subframe Hard Collar Kit
Buying soon:
Ground Control Coilover Conversion with a spring rate of; Front: 450lb Rear: 560lb
Skunk2 Rear Lower Control Arms
Progress Rear Sway Bar Adjustable
Progress Front Sway Bar
Energy Suspension Bushing Kit
Buddy Club Roll Center Adjusment Ball Joint
Blox Spherical Front LCA Bearing Kit
Suggestions For????
Camber Kit
End Links
Caster Plates
Tie Rod Ends
A Camber Kit, i don't know which one, i was thinking HardRace I was also planning on getting Hotchkis End Links Front And Rear so would if i do that would i not need new Tie Rod Ends? If i would then what would you all recommend? Also, what else would you guys recommend? I wanted to Add A Caster Plate as well but i don't know which would work.
Wheel/Tire Set up
Front: 17x9+35/ 245/40R17 With a -3.2 Camber
Rear: 17x7.5+45/ 225/45R17 With a -2.8 Camber
Last edited by obsoletearturo; 06-21-2013 at 08:36 PM.
Don't bother with the front progress sway bar your stock will do just fine. You need a bigger rear sway to help get rid of understeer.
Bigger than that Progress adjustable??
function 7 lca
dont need front sway
hardrace bushings unless you want to keep greasing your energy sus
look around at buddyclub rca posts. i'd say hardrace again, unless you get jdm dc5r lca's, then stay buddy club for those..
check out if there are any reviews on the blox sphericals, PCI's have been provent beyond 100k miles so far with no maintenance.
ingals camber kit or SPC, and/or ebay top hat camber kit for rsx
diy adjustable endlinks
todds caster plates are the only castor plates i know of, otherwise its pci offset bushings instead of normal sphericals.
AKEP;i kinda don't really wanna do diy endlinks, which are good that i could just install? where would i buy todds caster plates?
Hey Akep, good to know that PCIs last that long.
Obsolete, the only caster plate available is Todd's, which are gorgeous. The big drawback is, using them with Konis, you lose 3/4" of travel. The EP doesn't have much travel stock so if you drop it at all you'll need some very stiff springs....
Hasbro, are the eibach's that come with the ground control coilover's good enough? did you also notice the front to rear spring ratio? where would i get the todd's?
Eibach's are very good quality. There are better but I would gladly use them. I have them on my rears for the time being until I know exactly what weight to go with. Are national titles won on them? Ye, but not with an EP, lol.Originally Posted by obsoletearturo
What are you asking re. front/rear ratio?
What do you want from your EP? What % daily driver/ commuter, autox, track ? Supension is very complicated and there are a million ways to go.
Todd's plates;
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=665014
http://www.dvrace.com/
Last edited by Hasbro; 06-22-2013 at 12:09 AM.
I'm going to jump the gun and make some observations re. spring ratio based on your comment of 70-80% suspension set up. I'm not an engineer or expert on suspensions. Just a somewhat obsessive hobbyist. There are other ways to go about this and there are qualified others on here with their own opinions. Maybe Zzyzyx will get on here and straighten me out!
As Akep mentioned, skip the aftermarket front bar. And the rear lca. The front spherical is a great idea, as much caster as you can get. No rush on that, though. Hard rubber bushings over Energy Suspension.
Springs; If you don't know what hertz (hz.) is, don't worry about it for now. Your 460front/560r springs are at 2.25f/2.05 hz. Perfect. If reversed. 2.05f/2.25 or 2.3 would be theoretically in line with the most commonly accepted area for RSX/EP set ups. I'm not referring to the total of the numbers but referring to the.25 to.3 difference. Lots of generalizing here! 460/560 could be made to work fine but why not get them right from the start? By the way, these hertz numbers are suggesting the use of Extreme Performance Summer tires. Anything less might not fully utilize these hertz numbers. The first and utmost suspension mod is your tires. You are solidly getting into your 70-80% target now.
So, 460front requires a rear spring of about 850-1200 lbs. rear. Yeah, see where this is going? Goodbye Koni Sports for one, goodbye street ride for another. Some people will disagree with me on this, heavy springs are popular. SHG_EasyE has heavy springs and he's one of, if not the most knowledgeable professional builders in the EP realm. Apples and oranges, though.
Let's reverse it. 560 rears/2.05 hz. puts the correct fronts at about 300lbs/1.8hz. Stock is about 1.65/1.8hz. iirc. 560/300 is a little soft for 80% but maybe 70%? Nice street ride that handles well and can be autoxed for a little fun. Which might be enough for you, dunno, just rambling along here. And that means a 3/4" drop would be ok.
How about something in the middle? 2.03/2.35 hz. gives you 400/750 lb. springs. Mustclimb made the assessment that 400 front and I can't remember the rear number but probably around 750, was about max for street comfort. I agree. I'm trying to build the best cornering streetable EP possible and, although my car is much lighter, it's springs would equal about 375 front/700 rear I think on a stock weight EP. I'll have to double check for the rears. Doesn't matter as I'll go a little higher due to increased track, camber/caster, and wider tires (9.5").
I'll stop here. There are tons of good reading material on these boards and elsewhere. Just ask and we'll provide you with more than enough info!
'Night,
Hasbro
Last edited by Hasbro; 06-22-2013 at 01:32 AM.
btw im trying to just use it as a daily driver with some spirited driving as well as taking it on the track once or twice a year
well diy endlinks are the same adjustable endlinks that corsport sells, and they cost about $40 for all 4 corners, shipped. you can't beat that. you need adjustable endlinks if you want adjustable suspension because hopefully, eventually, you will get corner balanced so that your ride is level as can be with you in the car so that way your suspension is somewhat predictable in every corner and able to maximize grip no matter which way you're turning. since all 4 corners will be slightly different heights after corner weighting, the enlinks need to be different lengths to keep the sway bar level and not preloaded. non adjustable end links are even length and will cause the sway bar to twist during adjustments, throwing your balance off. probaly the easiest, cheapest mod you can do compared to what you're trying to do already.
Last edited by hondero69; 05-04-2009 at 02:26 PM.
Where would i be able to buy them? For a good price
All of that gobbledegoock was just to show you how the spring sizes related. Your original numbers aren't very well matched. They will sell whatever springs you want. I would recommend 336 front / 650 rear for a good all around match. 350 to 375lbs. front / 650 to 700 rear for a little more performance.
Those would be good for a small drop, say 3/4".
The good thing about stock weight is the four corner weights are a known fact. When weight is pulled off it's hard to know the actual weights without actually weighing the car. Usually the rear loses a much higher percentage. Just rambling and having fun.
Last edited by Hasbro; 06-22-2013 at 05:45 PM.
If im using the koni sports hasbro and im gonna go with 650 then im gonna have to get the rear ones revalved
Good point. Didn't get that far. 336/575 is fine. Spring hertz tells you where to start. Your adding a heavier rear bar so that will keep things in line and allow the use of Konis. Good choice on the rear bar as it's adjustable. I think it's the only one available.
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