Alright, my friend is an idiot so I guess that makes me a bigger idiot for listening to his dumb ass...
Bygones... As such a new door has opened. I have sourced a K24A2 from the fine folks at LKQ salvage. The engine is from an '06 TSX with the ninth digit being a "6" in the vin. Or something like that.
So, heres where I am at as of now. I have ordered some things and hoping to use current things.
Innovative 60A mount kit with a generic 75A front mount off Ebay.
New tct (prb-a01)
Upper chain guide (14540-raa-a02)
Cr-v engine bracket (11910-ppa-000)
Lower timing chain guide
What I currently have or use includes:
CC stage 1 clutch kit mounted on a Pro Lite flywheel (A2 styles) 6 speed gear box
Skunk 2 stage 1 cams
RBC cut manifold as well as the stock PRB manifold
PWJDM Power Chamber and Karcepts adapter
DCRH going on about 4 years with no signs of damage save some surface rust.
Mugen twin loop exhaust
NST pulleys
And of course the Kpros. I will be ordering a new oem water pump simply because the engine has just over 100k miles.
Now, with this combination of parts, what would be the best path to follow intake manifold wise? I am looking into keeping the RBC but have been reading about the PRB with plenum spacer putting out very solid numbers. I will sacrifice some mid range for good pull all the way to redline.
Next concern is the cams, keep the stockers or install the Skunk 2's?
And lastly, I have no intention of going beyond stage 2 cams in the future, will the DC/ Mugen combo be much of a restriction for this current level of bolt ons? I am not afraid to pillage the A2 for random bits as needed. Oil pump included. I just dont want to disassemble the K24 at this stage beyond the valve and front covers. Any thoughts, suggestions or input are, as always, greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance fellas.
if I was you, I would put in the A2 oil pump while the engine is already out, especially if your going to be putting different cams in.
polish that RBC and put that in there, especially if your putting in different cams!
why not use the A2 head and make yourself a k20/k24 frank?
Well, unless I am way confused (very real possibility these days), the K24A2 should be a "true" three lobe vtac head already?
Using the K20A head is one of 2 options as I also have a Z3 head bought months ago.
Either way, my observation is the crazy angle of the throttle body coming off the RBB manifold. That will neccesitate an alternate intake elbow or intake piping altogether. I would like to keep my current set up, but if it has to go it has to go.
Keep in mind this is kinda spur of the moment. While I didn't think I would wake up one morning to a $1600 (so far) kick in the eggs, I am fortunate, blessed even, to be financially able to roll with the tide. I dont mind spending the cash, but right now, I am actually looking at reciepts and invoices. Not a rich man, I just play one on tv.
I'm gonna be pissed in a month or so, so hopefully the new found K24 horsespowers will keep me off the evening news.
yeah I hear you man.
there will always be something that costs a shit ton that you didn't expect when you swap an engine.
check this out, k24a2 swap with a rbc dyno:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20oxre3AhQk
that's some nice numbers.
I may be way off, but I thought the A2 had a more aggressive cam stance than the k24a2.
Speaking in terms of the K24, the A2 out of the TSX is the powerhouse. Coming in 2 iterations. The 04-05 putting out 200 hp and the 06-08 putting out 205hp but with a revised head sporting larger intake valves and the desireable lumpier cams (when compared to the early A2). The power output out of the box as well as mod for mod is improved on the newer engine to a certain degree.
Again, I could be waaaay off, but this is my understanding of the available information.
nope, you are correct.
just found a blog about k20a2 cams vs k24a2 cams.
just need to switch the A2 50 vtc over to the k24a2 and your golden.
but I would definetly put in the A2 oil pimp.
If you trying to look for the best set up of your current possessions this is what I would do.
K20a head, type R intake cam, TSX exhuast cam if you wanna stay OEM or you can slap in you sk2 cams which would be even better if you're after numbers. And of course swap a2 oil pump.
Keep the rbc with 70mm tb and 3.5 intake. I did a little research of my own and if I could do it, I would go this route. You gonna be around 240+ whp
And if you open up to a 3" catback with the sk2 cams I wouldn't doubt you be able to hit 250 whp and that's of course with a good tune
Thanks for the input. I am looking to not have to buy too many more parts unless absolutely necessary. I will be looking to recoup some of this cost by selling off whatever is left over. My original plan was to install a helical lsd, so at some point that has to get done. The Type S swap I have been running really could use an lsd I can only imagine the improvement one will make with the new found torque.
I intend to play around with the manifolds and give each an honest go. But all things weighed, I will have the RBC ported over to accept the larger throttle body you suggest. I will install the S2 cams along with the new chain and tensioners as well.
The oil pump figures to be some work though. I am actually reading into it now.
On the exhaust side...it's gonna be a damn shame to get rid of the Mugen.
There's nothing to buy since you already have it. Just a new head gasket to fit the head. I believe it's a k24a1. Don't quote me yet.
There's no need to get a new exhaust. I was saying that to push every last bit of power out but that's not necessary
Id keep your 06 stock cams- best oem cams out there. Add a 50 deg vtc as stated and i would add the rsx type s oil pump too- itll help in the long run. Throw the rbc on there and youll have a nasty little setup.
Just for verification, the 50* vtc would be the stock K20A2 cam gears correct?
As for the oil pump, I can get an S2K oil pump at an agreeable price ($150), already off the engine. Kinda odd I can find the S2K oil pump but noone can source an A2 or Z3 pump.
I dropped off my original PRB manifold with a friend to do some clean up and basic smoothing of the runners for the time being. I will run that while the RBC is getting properly ported out.
I'm not going to lie, I am a tad hesitant about cracking open the K24 oil pan. I fear the snowball effect.
Since you're planning to use the prb or the cut rbc, you'll need to either get an adapter plate or tap/plumb the coolant port.
Last edited by mario543k20; 05-11-2009 at 09:57 AM.
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Yessir.Originally Posted by usedep3
I am probably just going to order an uncut RBC. I am pretty sure I can sell my cut one for not too much of a loss. I can live with that.
Although I have been eyeballing Hasport gasket flange thing. That would save a few $$$, well, actually it won't...
For sale thread coming soon...
the 50deg vtc can be found on your stock k20a3, k20a2, k20z3, k20z1.
i would just go with an uncut RBC- makes life easy. you dont exactly need to port it either unless your looking for peak power- if that is the case i would go with an RRC or custom.
i would just contact the guys at autofair honda- they have put together a k20a2 oil pump conversion kit that you can buy straight from the dealer- all BNIB... and there are more than enough threads about the conversion to make the install easy. I would only recommend the k24a4 (accord) oil pan- it has the dimple right under the oil pickup that adds a little bit more clearance for the oil pump.
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