k24A1 PREP SWAP questions

[reszmeth]

Sup Y'all, this is about my first swap.The engine is currently on a jack stand soon to be put in my hatch with the stock tranny but before then, I am replacing my head gasket, timing chain, and clutch this weekend. Question is if I could use the base RSX Service manual for bolt torque specs on the crankshaft bolt(if it has one) and rocker arms? i bought some ARP Head bolts so ill use the torque specs from whatever is in the instructions.

Long story short, this engine was previously installed by a shop in MS and when all said and done they told me it had a blown head gasket. The person that sold me the engine gave me a k24a8 in return. Instead of sticking with the k24a1 I wanted to do the swap again myself to put in the k24a8 since it only had 17,000 miles on it. Last weekend after pulling out the a1 engine I found out the a8 engine was seized due to a heavy build up of rust in one of the cylinders. After taking it all apart and honing it there wasn't any pits. I then decided that ill probably just sell it to someone that is interested in rebuilding it. I'm so damn indecisive

Iv'e been reading up on the k24A1 swap and I've read that the stock exhaust manifold wont fit but when i unbolted the exhaust manifold from the midpipe(or what ever its called) it seemed to bolt up fine even with the front swat bar still on. Should i plan on getting a different exhaust manifold? I also plan on purchasing RSX 310cc injectors tomorrow since i am still currently using the k20a3 ecu. Anything else I should include with the injector purchase or in general?

Thanks for any replies

[usedep3]

It sounds like you're not going to be running kpro. If you plan on running the a3 ECU with the k24a1 all you need to do is keep the ep3 oem I/H/E and add 310 injectors. As far as the sway bar, its a case by case situation. Some members have gotten away with it, others have had to get rid of the OEM swaybar to clear the OEM header. It might fit fine with the car off the ground, but the header may hit the sway when the car is on the ground or when the engine is under load. Some people have said that only the 2002 oem front sway will clear a k24. Nothing definitive.

If you plan on keeping the AC, I recommend taking out the radiator, and just unbolting the compressor from the block. don't disconnect any of the lines or the condenser. I just moved everything to the side and was able to pull my motor out from the top. AC didn't need to be refilled and it's been fine for the last 2 years.

It sounds like you have everything set so far. Good luck. Have fun with the swap!

[reszmeth]

thanks for the reply usedep3. I only got a AEM CAI with me. Should i go out of the way and purchase a stock one? Also, I just pmed a guy on ClubRSX that is selling his 2005 oem rsx type-s injectors and fuel rail. For my install do I need his fuel rail or could I just use mine? I'm thinking it wouldn't matter but just want to be sure. Thanks

[Ba82Ep3]

Either rail will work, but the EP rail should fit best (fuel dampener center of the rail).

The header issue depends from EP to EP apparently. Some cant get if to fit/clear others can. If it works... save the cash and use what you have until you opt for KPro and a better header.

The CAI wont be much of a problem if youre using the stock header and exhaust with cat.... if you use an aftermarket catless exhaust you may run a little lean. Again, case by case basis... and location (weather/elevation) plays a big part in it all.

The Acura RSX manual has both k20a2 and k20a3 torque specs inside... follow the k20a3 specs for the crank pulley. The k20a2 crank is forged and thus has a higher TQ requirement. k20a3/k24a1/4/8 cranks are not forged and use less TQ for the CP bolt.

- Dave

[reszmeth]

Thanks for the info Dave. I actually have a comptech exhaust installed. Looks like ill be running lean until i get kpro then. Actually my car was stuck in Theodore, AL for a while. It broke down on a drive to Biloxi from Ft Walton beach, FL. You don't live too far from me. Meets out here every tuesday night at the crab trap on okaloosa island.

So, I took off the head,timing chain assembly, and oil pump today. I have a parts washer that I'm going to use for the first time tomorrow morning and I hope to get the head, cams, valve cover/timing chain cover, rocker arms and all the bolts nice and clean. What cleaning formula works best without leaving a oily/harmful residue on the parts? Alternatively, I called a local machine shop for a quote to have them cleaned and they offered $50 to Vac it all(earliest would be monday). I'm thinking I might as well try to save 50 bucks and clean it myself but if it doesnt come out clean enough ill consider bringing it. My only concern is cleaning the channels within the head where the valve stems are visible. As far as the block, my coworker mentioned to go at it with some PB blaster to clean the top of the pistons. For the coolant passages maybe a brush, water, and air. Air to blast away the debris. Any cleaning tips would be helpful. Thanks again ya'll

[reszmeth]

removed pic

[usedep3]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6599[ATTACH]

Wow! Car looks really good, man.

[reszmeth]

Thanks usedep3!

so i used the parts wash today and went to town for 4 hours. I got the parts somewhat clean but probably not as clean as the machine shop could of got it. i think i'm just being a perfectionist. I'm cleaning up the long block tomorrow and the oil pump then finally ready for the timing chain, clutch, and head gasket install. I decided to paint the valve cover vht crinkle red during the process. Hopefully ill be ready to drop in the engine by Wednesday. Also ended up getting some 310cc rsx type s injectors from a dude on clubrsx for 45 shipped. Cant wait to get this thing running.

[reszmeth]

Im seeing stuff about the k24a1 oil pump having a rev limit. I have a k24a8 oil pump handy and wondering if it would be better using it instead?

[Blah1219]

Just dish out the extra 250 for the whole type s oil pump through Honda. Wouldn't he be running dangerously lean with that cai and comtech exhaust? Btw the k24a8 oil pump wouldn't benefit over the k24a1 oil pump.

[reszmeth]

Think i figured it out. The mech shop drove my car(probably at high rpms) after installing the engine and since it was running lean with the bolt ons it detonated and blew my head gasket. Think that is a likely scenario? Well im having my stock intake being sent to me and ill have that installed. So running this time It'll just have the comptech exhaust the added 310cc injectors. Think that will ease it from running lean rather then going out and buying kpro?

[Ba82Ep3]

Stock airbox would be beneficial if you wanna be sure.

There arent too many commercially available (inexpensive) cleaners. My favorite is a CRC product called TYME-1. You can buy it online and it is reusable/filterable. I built several engines and transmissions with 5 gallons of it... and the remainder has a differential in it right now. Other than that... good ol WD40 works well... it just takes soak time/agitation to let it do its best.

The k24a1 pump is the same as the k20a3 pump. If you dont wanna spend the coin for the k20a2 setup... you will be content with the smoother operation of the k24a1/k20a3 oil pump. Cavitation issues wont be a problem for you since you will be w/o KPro and wont be revving high to make power... and its easy to add the setup later on when monies provide.

FWB aint far from me at all. We hang out fridays and saturdays round here. Not too many EP's though. Everyone here is still stuck in B/D series world... or drools over sr20 swaps and Nissans...

[reszmeth]

my k24a1 oil pump is filthy so i am using my k24a8 one.

[Blah1219]

I have a k20a2 oil pump assembly (60k) with new chain if you're looking to upgrade.

[reszmeth]

No thank you blah. If you still have it early next year i'll definitely get it from you. I gots ta save up for kpro and a tune.

Done with the cleaning and scraping. Went crazy with carb cleaner and now ready to put everything back together. Inhaling those cleaning fumes were killing my future babies. Ill get some pics up tomorrow of erythang.