Reply With QuoteA fat rear sway bar and you would be set with that.
I'm gonna go with 05-06 a spec kit and here's what I'll buy with itOriginally Posted by Hasbro
1. Pci spherical bushings
2. Dc5-r LCA
3. Dc5-r front sway
4. Bushings from king motorsports
Am I missing anything from that list that is needed/recommended?
A fat rear sway bar and you would be set with that.
I'll see how my 06 RSX-S sway does, If I'm not happy with it I'll get the progress sway bar
The Progress bar is only 1mm larger (do they still make the 24mm bar?) than the S bar but has a solid attachment. If you don't mind the extra expense an adjustable bar would be top tier.
I can't wait to do all of this next year, really getting tired of my coilovers..... maybe if this wasn't my daily driver i'd keep them but I need it to function on all surfaces.
Another thing I'll have to do is figure out why my wheels stick out further on the passenger side than the driver's side. Alignment is the same all around..... It's been bothering me for a while now
Curious, if only for my own edification, what psi are you running for street and autox and where are your damper settings for street and autox? Maybe you could adjust them to a passable street level.
I imagine N+ dampers have a similar poor response to bumps as Koni Sports do. Sports, also only single adjustable, are really only good for smooth surface performance. However, they can be made to be quite street able by softening the adjustments and reducing psi.
A really top notch damper with your spring sizes can adjusted to be perfectly fine for street driving, albeit pretty firm. In other words, it's usually the damper that's the problem, not the spring. And the majority of guys that have adjustable systems usually screw it up - including me. The more I research, the more I realize I still don't know what I doing compared to an expert tuner. One sage suspension guru really pushes for what he calls "the 85th percentile". It's a street/track able tune that is tweaked back a bit because it's so much more reasonable and is usually faster most of the time except at the extreme end. In the end it's much more enjoyable.
Sorry, babbling again. Been talking to True Choice and others today, all wound up.
you know, i might do that instead actually. im gonna be pulling the coilovers off to raise the car and replace some bushings so i'll adjust the damping to very soft then stiffen in from there. would I benefit from extended balljoints even if im only going to be lowered an inch or so?Curious, if only for my own edification, what psi are you running for street and autox and where are your damper settings for street and autox? Maybe you could adjust them to a passable street level.
I imagine N+ dampers have a similar poor response to bumps as Koni Sports do. Sports, also only single adjustable, are really only good for smooth surface performance. However, they can be made to be quite street able by softening the adjustments and reducing psi.
A really top notch damper with your spring sizes can adjusted to be perfectly fine for street driving, albeit pretty firm. In other words, it's usually the damper that's the problem, not the spring. And the majority of guys that have adjustable systems usually screw it up - including me. The more I research, the more I realize I still don't know what I doing compared to an expert tuner. One sage suspension guru really pushes for what he calls "the 85th percentile". It's a street/track able tune that is tweaked back a bit because it's so much more reasonable and is usually faster most of the time except at the extreme end. In the end it's much more enjoyable.
Sorry, babbling again. Been talking to True Choice and others today, all wound up.
I believe USAirForce stated there is a benefit but you are ok until about 1 1/4".
You might call Buddy Club to find out the best damping level for street. Do you have to remove the damper to adjust? I'm not familiar with them but if the dampers are only sold with specific weight springs they came with then a medium setting would most likely be at the middle, say at 8 clicks. Depending on where you are set at now (-4k to +4k) would help determine how soft you should go. Maybe -2k, I don't know. Get on CRSX.com and ask. There are a ton of guys there using N+ and they will set you up very quickly.
This afternoon, after following this thread, I played with my Konis to find a nice comfortable but fast street setting. I went to 1 full turn (40% from full soft) in the front and to 2/3 turn from soft (50%, middle) in the rear. Warmed the tires (love that smell, lol) from 37 cold all around to 40.5 front, 39.5 rear. I took 1 lb. from all tires, 39.5/38.5. I guess around 36 cold now. Apples and oranges to someone else's set up but the ratios might cross over. I have 336f/515r springs but on a stock weight EP that translates to about 425 lb. springs front/ 700 rear so we aren't that far off, you being at 560/784.
Sorry, rambling again.
Oh, to anyone interested, that soft setting gave me a very mild oversteer while at a constant throttle and no letting off. I tried it several times to confirm. I wouldn't try accelerating nor decelerating due to testing on a circle with curbs.
Last edited by Hasbro; 10-25-2013 at 06:08 PM.
Figured out what I'm going to do, gonna take off my coilovers and take them apart, lube them, replace bushings, tighten everything down with some Loctite. I'll also swap out the springs for some Swift springs with the same spring rates. Hopefully I'll have some extra cash to get the front DC5-R bits and pieces. I know barely anyone says this but I can't wait to raise my car about half an inch. I think I'm too low right now
Is the ITR suspension the same/similar to usdm Type S?
ITR is most like Aspec
Last edited by talonXracer; 05-09-2009 at 01:41 PM.
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