EP3 with K20A2 swap idling issues

[Mooky_Stank]

I have been having issues with my engine since the swap. For a while it was burning through ignition coils like crazy, but that may have been due to the coils being eBay brand. Now it isn't idling very well.
After warming up it will do things like dip very low or surge very high when stopped. It is worse when driving and then stopping at a light. I have tried adjusting the idle cycle valve adjustment above and below the center mark but it does it regardless.
I have read several articles on this site and others regarding the MAP sensor, TPS, IACV, etc. but I cannot determine what is the problem. You will see in the attached video link that kpro shows readings from the MAP and TPS and they seem to increase and decrease consistently with revving. Therefore I am thinking it is the IACV, but I would appreciate any other thoughts advice that anyone can offer.

Technical Specs:
Remanufactured K20A2 fresh from dealer
410cc RDX injectors
PRB intake manifold
PRB ecu with kpro
Injen ram intake
HPR headers
Apexi axle-back
All other bolt on parts are from the A3 including the valve cover

Video showing idle dip including kpro readout, I could not include the rpm surge because like I said it happens at red lights and does not happen every time and I generally don't have the time to whip out my phone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa4V...e_gdata_player

[tinman5]

I see the engine is fresh, but are you running a used throttle body? If so remove and clean the IACV. You will have to take off the throttle body from the manifold to get to the screws. Use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut slots into the screw heads. You'll understand when the throttle body is in your hands. Spray/soak the chambers with carb cleaner or brake cleaner, let it sit for a bit. Then get in there with some Q tips and the smallest flat head screwdriver you have. Turn the wheel until it rotates easily. Once it is as clean as you can get it spray the ends of the shaft with some lube (WD40, PB Blaster what have you) and apply a small dab of grease with a Q tip, rotating the shaft as you do so. Re-assemble and install throttle body. I actually replaced the mangled factory screws with proper bolts should the need to get in there come again.
Hopefully this helps.

[Mooky_Stank]

Yes I am using the stock throttle body (As far as I know. I am the fourth owner) which has almost 150k miles. And thank you for your help. I had read about doing this method you're describing and I thought this is what I would have to do, but since it is so involved I was trying to avoid it. Also, because it involves messing with coolant lines, according to a very in depth DIY, this might be out of my depth.

[USAF EP3]

Where in Florida are you located? If you are near me I can do the IACV job for you in just a few hours.

[Mooky_Stank]

Thank you for your offer USAF EP3, and thank you for your service. Unfortunately I live in the panhandle. Unless you know anyone stationed at Tyndall who could help me, lol.

[tinman5]

Pick up a 1 foot length of 5/16" hose from an auto parts store. Cut it in half and remove the hoses from the hard pipe on the engine. Use your new piece of hose to connect the 2 nipples. The whole process should not take but a moment and coolant loss will be minimal.
At this point the intake will be removed.
Unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body (2 10mm bolts I believe), and worm out the cables from the throttle cam/wheel.
Believe me when I tell you this sounds more complicated than it is.
Disconnect the 3 connectors up top. At this point the TB is ready for removal.
2 nuts and 2 bolts secure the TB, remove these with a 12mm socket.
The throttle body will probably be stuck to the intake manifold, use a rubber mallet or small piece of wood to knock it free.
At this point you will disconnect the remaining big ass connector on the IACV.
Viola! She's free... Working leisurely, once the intake is off, the throttle body can be completely removed in about 15 minutes. Finger wrestling the throttle cables and breaking the seal will take the longest.
As always though, never work beyond your competence, your means or your confidence. Hopefully this process is something you can do as it truly is simple, costing you only a new gasket a length of hose and some brake/carb cleaner and maybe an hour or 2 of downtime.
Good luck though.

[Mooky_Stank]

Thank you tinman. I assume it would be a good idea to burp the coolant system after performing this.

[USAF EP3]

Pick up a 1 foot length of 5/16" hose from an auto parts store. Cut it in half and remove the hoses from the hard pipe on the engine. Use your new piece of hose to connect the 2 nipples. The whole process should not take but a moment and coolant loss will be minimal.
At this point the intake will be removed.
Unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body (2 10mm bolts I believe), and worm out the cables from the throttle cam/wheel.
Believe me when I tell you this sounds more complicated than it is.
Disconnect the 3 connectors up top. At this point the TB is ready for removal.
2 nuts and 2 bolts secure the TB, remove these with a 12mm socket.
The throttle body will probably be stuck to the intake manifold, use a rubber mallet or small piece of wood to knock it free.
At this point you will disconnect the remaining big ass connector on the IACV.
Viola! She's free... Working leisurely, once the intake is off, the throttle body can be completely removed in about 15 minutes. Finger wrestling the throttle cables and breaking the seal will take the longest.
As always though, never work beyond your competence, your means or your confidence. Hopefully this process is something you can do as it truly is simple, costing you only a new gasket a length of hose and some brake/carb cleaner and maybe an hour or 2 of downtime.
Good luck though.

To really get into the IACV and clean it thoroughly he will need a Dremel-like tool with a cutting wheel accessory to cut slots into the security bolts Honda installed. Once you have cut the slots, you can then use a common (flathead) screwdriver to remove the bolts.

There's 2 security bolts on the magnetic motor that turns the valve inside the assembly and you need to remove the motor so you can manually work the valve while spraying it down to get all the gunk out.

[Mooky_Stank]

Yes, thank you again USAF, I read about using the dremel, however I'm out of cutting wheels. So I may have to use a small hacksaw blade. I'm still wondering whether it's necessary to bleed the coolant system after doing this.

[tinman5]

I ended up bypassing the coolant lines to the throttle body, however I did idle the car for a bit to top off the fluid. After I initially disconnected the lines to the throttle body, coolant loss was surprisingly minimal. Maybe a half cup.
I would suggest a burping of the system, although in my case, I did a quick burp and had no issues. Keep in mind I have a proper temp gauge and noticed no temp spikes after doing this work that would indicate air pockets.

[Mooky_Stank]

Thank you very much tinman. You and USAF have been very helpful. Right now I'm waiting on a new iacv gasket and power rev throttle body gasket ( I figured while I'm at it, might as well), but after I perform the maintenance I'll be sure to post an update.

[tinman5]

Cool beans. Hopefully this will resolve your issue as more often than not the IACV seizing is responsible for idle issues.
Just remember to work systematically. More than likely you may drop one of the bolts/nuts that secure the throttle body so be aware. You can remove the throttle cables from the cam/wheel while everything is still assembled, I just find it faster to unbolt the bracket with the cables and wind it over the cam, then you can just pop out the ends. Dont mess with the jam nuts!!!!
Yes, you will be surprised at how thoroughly the throttle body may be stuck to the intake manifold. Sometimes a good tug will free it, sometimes you have to unleash your inner Ike Turner.
That is my last minute commentary.

[Mooky_Stank]

Lol. Yeah I've heard it can be a pain. Yeah I've dealt with the throttle cable b4 and I'll definitely be doing it after removing the bracket.

[Mooky_Stank]

Since posting this I have taken the IACV and the throttle body off and cleaned them both and it made absolutely no difference. I took it to my mechanic and he didn't discover anything, all he could tell me is that the ecu is sending the command to make it happen. I have a feeling it's something that needs to be done in kpro.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[USAF EP3]

Again, if you'd like, I can take a look at it. I'm very familiar with Kpro and the settings needed to get a setup idling properly.

I noticed you have the 410cc injectors, did you compensate for this in the fuel tables or did you just throw them on?

Also, is this setup "tuned"?

Is the MAP sensor stock? A bad MAP sensor can do weird things like this and NOT throw an engine code. Seen this happen many, many times before.

And finally, if you did just throw the bigger injectors on, you will need to see what your battery voltage is during the times your idle is misbehaving. Sometimes the battery voltage compensation is different from injector to injector. If you left them alone you may need to look up what the 410's want at certain voltages. I ran into this problem when I installed my ID 1000cc's.