Where do these cars rust?

[Claff]

Howdy

I signed up for this forum a thousand years ago when I was shopping for a new fun car. I was mulling over the EP3 hatch, Hyundai Tiburon V6, Focus SVT, RSX, Celica, and Eclipse. I wound up buying a 2004 Tiburon GTV6 Special Edition and had no complaints. Then I discovered Miatas and sold the Tiburon in 2008.

Fast forward to present times. We have a handful of fun cars: three Miatas (we have had a total of five, and up until recently had four here). We do semi-serious autocrossing so we also have a Ram (Dodge) pickup and trailer. I also have my derelict '71 MGB that I bought back in 1987 and have managed to hang onto all this time.

A year and a half ago me and the missus did some cost-cutting, selling our 2010 Mazda3 hatch and picking up a $1600 '88 CRX Si for commuting. I really like the CRX. We bought it from someone who was starting to make it an autocross car so it's got 600 lb springs, Koni SPSS struts, header and fart pipe, fun stuff. It also has a rebuilt title, 241K miles, and no A/C. Last summer the missus, who has the longer commute and thus spends the most time in the CRX, started griping about the lack of A/C and punishing ride on her 15 mile suburban Washington DC commute.

So we're looking for something else. I want to hang on to the CRX and possibly develop it more for autocross. She wants something more comfortable. I don't want a car payment since we're paying for a $40K truck. So we're looking at what we can pick up for $4K or $5K cash - something reliable, relatively clean, relatively efficient, relatively safe, and relatively disposable since it will be subject to the Metro system parking lots.

We started out thinking Honda CRV or Element, but I didn't think a little crossover would be ideal. Next thought was Subaru Forester, but too many people said "oh no head gaskets!" so I've cooled off on those even though they can be had for stupid cheap. After that I was pretty high on Mazda Protege5.

The wife does all the searching on the computer and started sending me links for 02-05 EP hatches. I remembered how much I liked them and I'm happy to see they're working their way down to the high end of our price range.

Since I've paid practically no attention to these cars since getting my Tiburon in 2004, I don't know anything about how they've aged and what their weak points are. Being Hondas I'm sure they're mechanically bulletproof, but as we start shopping these cars I'd like to know where the 'gatcha' points are. Do they rust in particular places? Do they spring leaks that I can check for? Do they eat up wheel bearings, go through axles too quickly, or have any other things I should be checking used, potentially high-mile cars for?

Thanks for any input you can offer.

[EP3Lov3]

Check the usual stuff and they rust the same spots as any other Honda. Nothing really special I looked out for when buying mine.

[G-MaC!]

Check the rear wheel wells all around, and make sure you push the carpet liner out of the way as rust will hide under that. Make sure to check right at the bottom of the wheel well where it meets the rear part of the side skirt. Steering rack is also famous for not being that great, listen for a creaking sound when turning.

[Ubeyo]

only spot of rust i got is the hatch bracket. its the one on the left side... just trying to add some input :D

[captaingamez]

I have tiny bits of rust on my hatch bracket too, and a couple other places but none of it is really serious or even noticeable without a really really sharp eye, I am in AZ, so it doesnt really happen here, My car is from Fl though. Honestly the rust can be %95 avoided if you dont drive your car in the winter on salty roads, if you do, undercoat can be effective.

As far as things going bad, there really isnt much that goes out that is very expensive in these cars. Axles, bearings, are good. And mine has had 2 engines and no oil leaks in either.The K series in general is really sealed. The transmission axle seals will leak VERRRY slowly once you get to really really high mileage, but they just barely seep, not drip. Easy fix too.

At 300k, my wheel bearings just NOW are starting to go, total cost: $90 in parts...

If the car is lowered, the steering rack can creak, mine does this sometimes, and then goes away .

The front compliance bushings (control arm bushings) go bad around 150k miles, they are not too hard to replace.

Look for 03+ models, they have a newer key style than the 02. 04+ have 5 lug hubs and slightly larger wheels.

All in all, I have around 300,000 miles on mine and it is incredibly reliable, I put on 30,000 miles a year on my ep3 and it takes it without complaint. I do have to do maintenance items like any ten plus year old car, but that is not a big deal. I have over a quarter million miles and I still trust my car for turn key daily reliability is what I am trying to say.

[SinisterCivicSi]

i have the honda cancer on my roof line by the top of my windshield. its not the cars fault.... i have replaced my windshield 5 times now (need another one too!) so all that scraping of glue i guess they hit the paint and exposed the metal.... time and seasons set in and VOILA!

[Hasbro]

i have the honda cancer on my roof line by the top of my windshield. its not the cars fault.... i have replaced my windshield 5 times now (need another one too!) so all that scraping of glue i guess they hit the paint and exposed the metal.... time and seasons set in and VOILA!

Damn, Sinister, five windshields!? You gotta stop rallying in gravel!

My EP has about 30k from the South Carolina coastal islands but has always been garaged. Now in the desert with 70k, the only rust is on the front hubs. Seriously. The bottom of the car could be wiped clean with a wet rag and none of the bolts (fingers crossed) have ever been hard to loosen. The main plus is no road salt

[DA9_GSR]

Check the bottom of the doors. Also check the underneath the weatherstripping at the top of the doors too.

[gribly]

Well, mine has spent it's entire life being driven year round in Maine, and we don't just salt roads around here, they spray down calcium chloride. My car is just barely starting to show signs of this, I'm amazed at how well it resists the effects of all the rust catalysts used on the roads here. The Megan mid pipe I put on this last spring is showing more signs of the bad roads than even the stock muffler! My car does have extensive undercoating on it, but I thought it was factory. If someone disagrees, I can post pictures of the underside of my car so someone could tell us if there is something different about it.

I will say this thing is terrible in snow though… If only because of the gear ratio and power band, with lack of traction control.