K20A Swap possibilities

[OZZYG_EP3]

I got the car about 7 months ago and have been doing nothing but planning of where I want to go with my build. I originally was gonna go simple with just a RH/I/E and hondata reflash, with the possibility of low boost and kpro down the line.

Recently I've been thinking I need to go bigger... I want to swap and I'm thinking of dropping in a JDM K20A from a DC5-R or EP3-R with a 6-speed LSD. But I've been doing some research and people seem to go with the K24A2 more often and I'm just wondering why. The K20A is gonna put out more power to start with, a good buy (which could be a bit pricey) comes with everything needed to drop right in, and it has the same potential to put out big numbers like the K24A2 (which takes a lot of additional parts from other sources).

I'm just trying to start writing out a budget for how much this job is going to set me back and the starting point is the engine, so I need to decided between K20A and K24A2.

I plan on keeping it as a NA DD for the next few years, but I will probably boost down the line when it is no longer a DD. I'd like to get between 220-250 whp after a swap, some bolt ons, and a tune. Definitely gonna go 6 speed-LSd no matter which engine I go with. As I look into everything else I need to go with a K24A2, I dont see it being much pricier to go with the K20A... unless their is something I am missing.

[captaingamez]

If you plan to boost at all, the K20A is a massive waste of money. If you plan to NA, that is where you get into a cost/benefit debate. Boosted there is no benefit to anything a K20A has to offer at all.

On the other hand, K20A have an absurd NA power potential, I have seen stupid numbers like 285hp on mostly stock engines, accuracy leads to question, but there is no doubt that the K20A is an incredible motor.

For a DD though, you will get more enjoyment out of a K24A2 than a K20A. The torque available where it is and the lower redline make it much nicer for driving around.

6 speeds, you will have to do some research on and it will depend on your engine choice which one will be ideal. But I would definitely go for a 6 over a 5 on the street. And at higher powers, an LSD is an absolute must, again, you could go OEM or aftermarket on that, You will have to do some research on which is the best and which final drive would be the best.

Keep in mind that this engine will cost you a minimum of $3000 for a good one. And you will need Kpro, You dont want to use the JDM ECU, it limits your top speed drastically, which is the law in Japan, all ECUs have governors.

[USAF EP3]

If you plan to boost at all, the K20A is a massive waste of money. If you plan to NA, that is where you get into a cost/benefit debate. Boosted there is no benefit to anything a K20A has to offer at all.

On the other hand, K20A have an absurd NA power potential, I have seen stupid numbers like 285hp on mostly stock engines, accuracy leads to question, but there is no doubt that the K20A is an incredible motor.

For a DD though, you will get more enjoyment out of a K24A2 than a K20A. The torque available where it is and the lower redline make it much nicer for driving around.

6 speeds, you will have to do some research on and it will depend on your engine choice which one will be ideal. But I would definitely go for a 6 over a 5 on the street. And at higher powers, an LSD is an absolute must, again, you could go OEM or aftermarket on that, You will have to do some research on which is the best and which final drive would be the best.

Keep in mind that this engine will cost you a minimum of $3000 for a good one. And you will need Kpro, You dont want to use the JDM ECU, it limits your top speed drastically, which is the law in Japan, all ECUs have governors.

Unless you KPro the JDM ECU.

Think of it this way, the DC5-R/EP3-R K20A is like the DC2-R B18C of our platforms. The big difference being that there isn't anymore subtle differences in the K-series engines between the 'normal' USDM engines and the 'R' engines. It has higher compression pistons (11:1 US spec, 11.7:1 JDM) and different spec camshafts; which the camshafts you can find here in the US from K20Z1 heads (05-06 RSX-S).

So at the end of the day you're buying a K20A2/K20Z1 with higher compression pistons and/or camshafts. THAT'S IT.

You need to ask yourself if the 'JDM WOW' factor means that much to you to spend the extra $1500-$2000 on a JDM engine when you can literally buy and build a better one stateside. Keep in mind I am only talking apples to apples here (K20's). This doesn't even include the selection and EASE of finding K24's stateside.

[captaingamez]

I only said that about the JDM ECU to highlight the fact that you can not drop it in and go over that speed, you need Kpro.

But, that is the angle I would go towards it as well. I completely agree, and that is why I said, that is where you get into a cost benefit debate.