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  1. #1
    Happy Shoe PRODIUS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    231

    DIY Mugen (Fiberworx) Radiator Duct install for pre-facelift EP3, Type R in JDM or

    This is an easy install and I hope it helps anyone afraid to cut into their Type R bumper.

    Pics: https://goo.gl/photos/ZmgLqoCsvMroRu63A

    1- Prepare your Air Duct (Pictures 1 and 2)
    • Mine is from Fiberworx in the UK, FX2 Radiator Duct, and is FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) - they make many EP parts
    • http://fiberworxonline.com/index.php...5_40&limit=100
    • It’s a great price at 75 Pounds Sterling, and 30 for shipping. I did'nt want to spend 400-800 bucks on a genuine Mugen piece or any CF, since it is exposed to the elements, possible cracking from even a small impact or even theft
    • Quality is good and I’d rate it at 7/10, 10 being reserved for an authentic Mugen CF piece
    • Typical FRP steps to prep: sand, fill in small pinholes, paint
    • I decided to PlastiDip the duct as it would match better to an OEM look, and provides a slight rubberized protection. Plus it can easily be removed and reapplied


    2- Remove your front JDM/UKDM bumper (Picture 3)
    • Working off the car is much easier for both the hole cutting and the install of the duct
    • Mark your duct outline and then cut a little wider
    • I used a combination of a drill to create pilot holes on all corners, a serrated knife and a dremel
    • Do not cut a huge rectangle by also cutting out the top indent portion, as it will be used for mounting, or should you want to mount your plate through the duct and into it for support


    3- Prep for install (Picture 4 and top of 5)
    • I pre-fitted the duct and added exterior use silicon to the interior perimeter to create a good seal and add a little rubbery give, let dry 24hrs
    • Did not want to only use double sided 3M tape to hold the Duct in place, as it could get loose or be very easy to steal, so...
    • Used stainless steel Hex Cap screws to securely mount the duct to the bumper indent, cut out some of the silicon for the bases to create a hollow
    • Used Epoxy to cement female portion to rear of duct, fill epoxy over hollow and Hex base for a complete bond, let dry 24hrs
    • Applied 2M double-sided automotive tape (in red) along duct perimeter
    • Mark where the Hex cap meets the bumper indent, and aligned for position/level, drill two holes (no picture)
    • Test fit the duct in place with the Hex bolts protruding through indent, and lock in place with male Hex screw using a washer


    4- Put your newly improved bumper back on the EP3 and admire your work (Picture 5 and 6)
    • Very happy with the final results
    • The use of plastidip and the mat grey color compliments the Satin Silver and looks OEM
    • The fit of the duct is a little away from the bumper on the left side in the top corner, but still recessed below the level of the bumper
    • I may not have trimmed enough on that side, or that the Fiberworx duct is not completely shaped right
    • I could have fiddled with it more, but instead used the silicon to even out most of it
    • I inverse mounted the stock plate holder below the bumper mouth


    Good luck with your project!
    Prodius
    2002 SIR, K24a2, JRSC-R, Progress Group Coilovers, Enkei DM5, Continental Extreme Contact DW, JDM stuff etc,

  2. #2
    Registered User Gilmour's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, ON
    Posts
    543
    Looks good. I've considered this for some time now (well the other version from fiberworx) with the SSR plate relocation bracket.

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    6
    Nice work. it looks great

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