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    Moderator=>PM 4 Help MugenReplica's Avatar
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    Jackson Racing Supercharger (JRSC) FAQ.

    What is a Jackson Racing Supercharger kit?
    It's basically a belt driven air pump that pulls air and gas into the motor which in return creates more horsepower. This is a slightly complex modification, which is harder to install than a CAI or RH. Anybody with the proper tools, a place to work on their Ep3, instructions, and a little time however can install this without any problems. Jackson Research at www.supercharger.com makes a kit for our 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si aka the Ep3. The current JRSC for the 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si uses the Eaton Gen IV M62 Supercharger. The supercharger is made by the Eaton Group (see their supercharger page) but all service and aftermarket work is done by Magnuson Products, Inc. (see their supercharger page).

    What am I looking to get for wheel horsepower with this kit?
    That depends. Jackson has a "street" and a "race" version. The street version will add between 30 and 50 horsepower at the front wheels.
    (see STREET KIT DYNO.)
    (see official RACE KIT DYNO).
    *Cliff Notes - Please notice that Jackson has compares a totally stock Ep3 with a low baseline to a supercharged Ep3 that not only has a JRSC, but also race header and a larger exhaust, so the gains are not all from the JRSC, but are an extension of the other modifications on the engine which will result in higher whp.
    **Cliff Notes - Also notice that the average RACE KIT owner seems to make in the neighborhood of 205-215whp with the 3.8" pulley. Some Ep3 owners however have made up to 235whp(jerseyjew from Ephatch) or 244whp(Oogy-Boogy from Ephatch) on stock top and bottom ends. Panathrasher(another Ep3 owner) made in the neighborhood of 255whp with the addition of Brian Crower Stage II cams for the K20a3, K24a1, and K24a4 heads, while at the same time losing a lb. in boost. So cams seem to be a very good addition to the RACE KIT.

    Does Jackson have different "race" versions?
    Yes, Jackson Racing has upgrades for their basic 5psi STREET kit. It consists of a smaller pulley (4.0") that increases boost from about 5 psi to 7 psi. It also requires a different Hondata ECU reflash and adds larger 440cc injectors to the mix. You could also do what some call the "ghetto" race kit and run the powercard with 310cc injectors and the 4.0" pulley. That has been tried before and seems to have great results.

    Can I break into the 13's with the RACE kit?
    Yes, Jerseyjew another Ep3 owner has a RACE kit tuned by Jeff Evans that puts out in the neighborhood of 235whp and has run as fast as a 13.3 timeslip. Fsugatorbait yet another member ran a 14.2 with just the standard STREET kit with full bolt ons. So yes it is possible with the correct driver and the proper setup(CAI/maxbore/4.0" pulley/440cc injectors/Kpro/RH/E/drag radials).

    My friend says turbo is better, is it?
    This is an age old discussion. Generally, people who want an "all motor" feel seem to buy a JRSC kit. It tends to have less top end power than a turbo, but many people prefer the instant response and more linear power of a supercharger. Plus as a whole the JRSC kits are considered more "reliable" as a whole.

    How much do the JRSC kits cost?
    The street has a list price of $2,395.00. The race version with ECU reflash is $2,795.00. The race version with Kpro is $3,395.00. They also have a version with NO ECU management system at $2,695.00.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    My race version with Kpro was about $2500 or something after Moss raised their prices so good prices can be gotten if you try hard enough to find them.
    How much does it cost to install it?
    I wouldn't pay much over $650 MAX. It most likely could be had for much less, closer to $350-$400.

    What will my mpg be?
    I've heard anywhere from 24mpg to 30mpg highway depending on the driver and how heavy he is on the throttle. Typically the supercharger is only in boost 5% to 10% of the time. The rest of the time the bypass valve is in operation which keeps it out of boost and helps your gas mileage.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    I, as well as a few others have seen increased gas mileage with the supercharger. This is limited to highway driving though. I get about 30-32mpg.
    Is the JRSC CARB legal?
    The STREET kit is CARB (California Air Resources Board) legal and you get a sticker to prove it. The race version on the other hand is not. Many Ep3 owners who are in CA have opted buy the STREET kit for the CARB sticker and build off from it at a later time.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    According to CARB D-344-10, the JRSC kit with 6" crank pulley and 4" SC pulley (aka race kit) is CARB exempt. Moss, however, does not market it as such because any boost over 5 psi will push the emissions out of range.
    What are the essential differences between the RACE and STREET kits?
    There are very little differences. Installation is identical in both scenarios except the STREET kit requires you to solder the powercard to three wires of your ECU harness. Also the RACE kit also uses a ECU reflash developed by Hondata for Jackson, and it also comes with 440 cc fuel injectors instead of the stock 270cc, and a MAP relocator. Hondatas' Kpro programmable ECU is probably the best option and can accomodate boost levels of up to 11 psi with the stock MAP sensor.

    Can the STREET kit be upgraded to the RACE kit?
    Yes. First you need to purchase a 4.0" pulley. Secondly you need to relocate your MAP sensor. Thirdly you send in your ECU/immobilizer/key to Hondata and get back a reflashed ECU and fuel injectors or upgrade to Kpro. Existing Hondata customers get a price break.

    Supercharger pulley diameters (in inches) and boost they will run.
    4.4" = 5psi (K20A3)
    4.0" = 8psi (K20A3)
    3.7-3.8" = 9-10psi (K20A3)

    Will the JRSC work with my intake/header/catback?
    They should work fine. There are however optimal headers, intakes and exhausts that seem to provide more power than others. For example headers and exhausts, especially can be a problem. With a header you want larger primaries with a larger diameter collector. To get full power, you also want a larger diameter exhaust. There is debate over using anything bigger than 2.5" ID however. Most dynos have shown little to no difference in upgrading to a full 3.0" OD exhaust over the 2.5" ID exhaust. As for a CAI, I'd recommend to use a RSX-S specific CAI as the piping is 3.0" vs the 2.5"-2.8" that the Ep3 CAIs come in.

    What SRI or CAI will provide the most power to my JRSC?
    Everybody says that a CAI will work much better than a SRI. Hondata also says they have seen between a 0.3 to 0.4 psi of extra boost from using a SRI over a CAI. So with the proper CAI you should expect 5whp to 12whp (depending on supporting modifications) more than from a SRI. Again I recommend the RSX-S CAI as its larger and you'll benefit more from it.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    I think the RSX-S CAI issue only applies to the AEM version. The Injen CAI is the same diameter RSX or Si I think; it's pretty big
    Is more boost always better?
    In one word.....YES.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.
    Is the JRSC difficult to install?
    It all depends on how good of a mechanic you are. The JRSC is still considered a "bolt-on," but there are quite a few tricks and many parts involved. Since I've been around I've heard of DIYs taking anywhere from 4 to 16 hours. Sometimes even longer depending on installation problems. One of the main issues also seems to be getting the belt tightened correctly. This is VERY important and VERY time consuming. While you are doing all of this, it is recommended that you at least get ESMM to limit wheel hop from the added power.

    Can I install the JRSC myself?
    If you have basic knowledge of lefty loosy and righty tighty and more importantly have the correct tools for the job, you and a friend can install it in one to two days. Make sure to read the instructions carefully and precisely. Then take your time and double and triple check everything you do.


    Is there a good instruction manual or DIY on how to install the JRSC?
    Jackson Racing now Moss Motors (www.supercharger.com) itself has detailed installation manuals for both the street and race versions that you can obtain online or download in .pdf form.

    Do I need new spark plugs after installing the JRSC on my Ep3?
    In one word, yes. Jackson Racing and now Moss Motors both recommend that you use plugs one or two steps colder than the stock plugs. Spark plug company NGK recommends one step colder for every 75-100 hp added.

    What problems are people who have the JRSC installed running into?
    Breaking belts and problems with the original and since redesigned tensioner are by far the biggest concerns. Traction is also an issue. Motor mount inserts are recommended but not needed. They will keep the engine from vibrating or jerking around too much, so to most people they will be important.

    So belts are a problem?
    Belts and even our tensioner seem to be a problem for our JRSC. It seems to not only be us but all Eaton blower kits in general. Always keep an eye and ear on your serpentines belt. Properly install it and take your time to get it finished correctly. Often you'll also have to frequently adjust the tightenting of the tensioner. Even a belt that seems to be installed just fine may, in fact, be slipping. Some Ep3 owners have been on the same belt for years with no problems, while others have not.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyJames
    I agree again and would like to stress that there are people who change belts a lot, and there are others, like myself, who have the original gatorback still on the car after tens of thousands of miles. Mel changed it only once or something if I remember correctly
    What exactly is the problem then?
    Unfortunately it is not as easily explainable as a belt or pulley problem. The problem is the tensioner that Jackson Racing developed and designed to use with our kit. Unforutunately a manual tensioner is what we have to use until someone comes up with or designs a automatic tensioner system.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oogy-Boogy
    Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.




    What if my belt breaks?
    That's a good idea. tt061880 and kaisertj from ephatch.com suggest to "never forget to always have the "JRSC ROAD KIT" in the car at all time, it consists a 10mm wrench and 17mm, plus a replacement belt." Sometimes you should also have a few other tools including a razor blade and 17mm wrench to make sure you can change your belt on the side of the road.

    Quote Originally Posted by kaisertj View Post
    Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.
    Where do I find a new belt and what belt fits my RACE or STREET kit?
    You can go to most auto parts stores on pick up the belt you need. The main thing to know is the part number, size and how many ribs you need. Mustclime below states exactly what is needed to help everybody out.

    Quote Originally Posted by mustclime View Post
    race kit belt "gates" pn# k070622
    street kit "dayco" pn# 5070630

    The dayco belts look like the goodyear gatorbacks but they are not even close, I am very happy with the preformance of the gates belt.

    fyi, the part numbers for these belts have all the info in them....k070622 = 7 rib, 62.2 inch long belt....the 5070630 = 7 rib, 63 inch long belt......at least thats what my parts guy told me...:dontknow:
    I'm running a K24 or K20a2 engine swap. What supercharger pulley size am I supposed to run?

    Here's a little table that I will add onto later when I check my math a bit. But essentially the 5.8" crank pulley is a K20a2 crank pulley and the 6.3" crank pulley is from a K24. So use the table below to get an idea of how fast your crank pulley spins your supercharger and how many pounds of boost your setup will be seeing.

    5.8" crank pulley & 3.8" supercharger pulley = 13,000 rpm (or around 4.8psi)
    5.8" crank pulley & 3.6" supercharger pulley = 13,700 rpm (or around 6.1psi)
    5.8" crank pulley & 3.3" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)

    6.3" crank pulley & 3.8" supercharger pulley = 14,100 rpm (or around 6.9psi)
    6.3" crank pulley & 3.6" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)
    6.3" crank pulley & 3.3" supercharger pulley = 16,300 rpm (or around 11.1psi)

    *Please note that the K20z1/K20a crank pulleys are smaller than even the K20a2 crank pulleys.

    I'm sure I'm not going to own my Ep3 for long and want to sell it in a few years. Will the JRSC cause a depreciation in value?
    Technically yes. A heavily modifed car will not likely be traded in without hassle from the dealership you are dealing with. People are also hesitant to buy "tuned" cars as they workmanship sometimes seems to be of a shotty or "ghetto" nature so that can also steer people away. A better alternative is to remove your JRSC and reinstall your OEM parts then sell your Ep3, although we all would hate to see/hear that.

    Will I like my JRSC? Would I ever want to sell it?
    Most who have a JRSC installed seem to really enjoy themselves and the car. Most seem to agree that the JRSC adds the power that they wanted at a reasonable price and has great reliablility for a DD. The few people who don't seem to like their JRSC, seem to be the ones who sell out and buy some type of turbo kit or opt for a K20a or K20a2 swap.
    Peronally I think the JRSC adds the power the car lacked in the first place. There will always be room for more potential, but don't expect 400whp and blowing by anything that moves. If you add Skunk2 or Brian Crower cams and a 3.8" pulley, you'll always have a smile on your face with the 250whp that is only a depressed gas pedal away.
    Last edited by MugenReplica; 09-01-2009 at 12:54 PM.

  2. #2
    ephatch member kaisertj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MugenReplica View Post

    What if my belt breaks?
    That's a good idea. tt061880 and Conrad from clubrsx.com suggest to "never forget to always have the "JRSC ROAD KIT" in the car at all time, it consists a 12mm wrench and a replacement belt." Sometimes you should also have a few other tools including a razor blade and 13mm wrench to make sure you can change your belt on the side of the road.
    Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.

  3. #3
    Moderator=>PM 4 Help MugenReplica's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaisertj View Post
    Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.
    Thank you sir. Quoting you into the thread my good man.

  4. #4
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaisertj View Post
    Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.
    Not necessary. Just tilt the wheel right, pull up the passenger side splash shield and feed it from the bottom. It'll take you less than 3 minutes.
    Mel

  5. #5
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.




    Mel

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    ephatch member kaisertj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oogy-boogy View Post
    Not necessary. Just tilt the wheel right, pull up the passenger side splash shield and feed it from the bottom. It'll take you less than 3 minutes.
    Your right, I found it was nice in case you get stuck against the barrier on the side of a freeway and its not really safe or room to be on the wheel like that. Happened one time, no fun at all, the screwdriver saved my life.

  7. #7
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaisertj View Post
    Your right, I found it was nice in case you get stuck against the barrier on the side of a freeway and its not really safe or room to be on the wheel like that. Happened one time, no fun at all, the screwdriver saved my life.
    Did it once on the side of the highway....
    Mel

  8. #8
    ephatch member kaisertj's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oogy-boogy View Post
    Did it once on the side of the highway....
    Haha crazy! I was so nervous, All I could think about was how bad I wanted to fix it before some motorsist plowed into me being dumb. See it all the time on TV it seems.

  9. #9
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaisertj View Post
    Haha crazy! I was so nervous, All I could think about was how bad I wanted to fix it before some motorsist plowed into me being dumb. See it all the time on TV it seems.
    Same boat here. It was down pouring and cold. I've never changed a belt that fast and don't believe I'd ever be able to repeat it.
    Mel

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    UKDM > JDM jimmyjames's Avatar
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    Wanted to add some comments (see below)
    Quote Originally Posted by MugenReplica View Post
    How much do the JRSC kits cost?
    My race version with Kpro was about $2500 or something after Moss raised their prices so good prices can be gotten if you try hard enough to find them.

    What will my mpg be?
    I, as well as a few others have seen increased gas mileage with the supercharger. This is limited to highway driving though. I get about 30-32mpg.

    Is the JRSC CARB legal?
    According to CARB D-344-10, the JRSC kit with 6" crank pulley and 4" SC pulley (aka race kit) is CARB exempt. Moss, however, does not market it as such because any boost over 5 psi will push the emissions out of range.

    What SRI or CAI will provide the most power to my JRSC?
    I think the RSX-S CAI issue only applies to the AEM version. The Injen CAI is the same diameter RSX or Si I think; it's pretty big

    Is more boost always better?
    I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.

    So belts are a problem?
    I agree again and would like to stress that there are people who change belts a lot, and there are others, like myself, who have the original gatorback still on the car after tens of thousands of miles. Mel changed it only once or something if I remember correctly
    Last edited by jimmyjames; 06-02-2008 at 02:29 PM.
    How to properly use Apostrophes
    The rev limiter is not meant to be used as a shift light

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    Quote Originally Posted by oogy-boogy View Post
    Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.

    http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=101[/IMG]
    http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=102[/IMG]
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyjames View Post
    Wanted to add some comments (see below)
    Just added these to the original thread guys. Thanks very much for the suggestions!

    IF YOU HAVE SUGGESTIONS.......PLEASE POST. Thank you!

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    Registered User freddy914's Avatar
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    i have ? i was thinkin of superchargin my k24a1 with 11.5 comp.pistons and k20a2 head with stage 2 cams.. would the jrsc race kit be to much boost or should i stick with street..

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    aside from belt issues, how does the street kit reliability/engine life compare to a stock motor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by freddy914 View Post
    i have ? i was thinkin of superchargin my k24a1 with 11.5 comp.pistons and k20a2 head with stage 2 cams.. would the jrsc race kit be to much boost or should i stick with street..
    Good question. If I could answer I would, but its not what I would call a FAQ. Any chance you wanna make your own thread in the BOOST section? I bet we'd get alot more responses and more valuable input as this is more of a unique project. If you start a thread let me know. Thanks man!

  15. #15
    Shu Shu retarded flu oogy-boogy's Avatar
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    BTW - Excellent thread John. Feel free to delete my posts as needed.

    JJ - Great additions.


    John, if you'd like I can add the CAI dimensions for the AEM RSX-S vs EP3.
    Mel

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