Alright boys, I didn't see anyone else with this here and the guys on facebook are loving it, so here you go- $5 and 25 min brake booster vacuum line tuck. No excuse not to. Removes that clunky double-pipe bolted to the side of the valve cover. You could also do this same thing to the evap solenoid line, but I just left it open at the firewall.


You will need: loppers or a way to cut metal and rubber tubing, 10mm socket, 3/8” tube (3 feet for what I did).


-remove the brake booster vacuum line from the manifold and the booster itself.


-remove the bracket on the firewall that holds the weird loop of tubing


-cut the check valve section of tubing. Our vacuum check valve is IN the tube (see pics). Save this piece. Especially important for boost applications.


-cut a section of the hard line that was held on the firewall to use as a coupler. I picked an angled section. Strip back the plastic sheathing around it.


-attach the check valve section of tubing to your coupler you just cut. Make sure the tube is in the right direction. Blow in each side, the side that you can blow through will attach to the brake booster. The other side attaches to your coupler piece.


-route a section of 3/8” hose from the manifold to your coupler piece. I went under the water neck on top of the transmission, then up behind where my battery is, but you can realistically go wherever.


-the end.


Hows it drive? Pedal is a little more firm than stock due to shortened "reservoir" area of vacuum tubing behind the check valve. brake boost with engine off only lasts 1 pedal pump instead of 3-4. Other than that, still have full power brakes. No ragrets. It's not a major tuck, but combined with a nice fuel rail and center fed fuel line that goes low under the water neck, it will look good.