Reply With QuoteYou can only run wet on our car. We don't have a return fuel line.
Steve
from what everyone has seen whats the highest hp shot you can use dry and wet im suspecting 50 maybe 70 dry and 75 maybe 100 wet does this sound right?
You can only run wet on our car. We don't have a return fuel line.
Steve
explain in more detail to prove me wrong but you were misinformed, the only time you will have to do that is to support significantly more hp you should not need anymore for a small upgrade the main difference is cylinder presure because wet evenly distributes gas to all cylinders on dry systems the gas is pulled into the cylinder nearest to the throttle body first and puts an uneven amount of gas in each cylinder causing extra stress therefore less ability to create more hp but dry makes more tq because it is so cold if mounted properly at the furthest possible point on the intake it will dramaticly reduce temperature
-10 degrees = + 1% hp
You seem to be misinformed. You need the vaccum line from the return fuel to increase fuel pressure (since it's dry). Without it, you have to go wet so that the fuel can be manually controlled.
Steve
In other words, you are fucked if you put a dry system on an SI. bye bye motor.
cool thanks so cost wize how much should it be to do and what are the limitations on hp
I'd say no more than 70 or stay at 50 to be safe. After that, I'd recommend doing some hard core research on fuel delivery, spark, timming, etc.
Steve
for a 50shot, stock fuel system and timing is OK. But u should get colder sprak plugs ( 1 step colder). You go over a 70 shot...then u should be looking at 255L/hr fuel pump and retart your timing.
I'm running a 75 shot wet, with no problems, easiest way is to upgrade the fuel rail to the AEM unit. As far as FM and Timing, don't worry about it until you get up in the triple digits. Just make sure you use some high octane gas and drop your plugs a heat range or 2, depending on how warm it is where you live. Our engine managment options are currently very limited, the best way as of now would be to get an SAFC plus a Programmable ignition from MSD.. But remember your car has coil packs so you have to get the Distributorless ignition, which is almost 400 bucks, so add another 275 for a SAFC, and your looking at 700 extra to go anymore than a 75 shot.
-PR
i dont se how get a AEM fuel rail with stock fuel pump would make a difference. You would still be pumping the same amount of fuel with the AEM rail.
Anything more than a 80 shot, i would go with 255L/hr fuel pump, fuel rail, RC 440cc injectors and sprak plugs. With that, you'll be good to go.
65-75shot, i would get a bigger fuel pump also, but hard wiring the fuel pump will also work for a 65-75 shot.
below a 65 shot... u dont need anything.!
The fuel rail doesn't increase flow rate, it provides a very simple solution to tapping into the fuel line, plus it will allow for future upgrades.
-PR
okay im confused why you have to use a wet kit i know a guy with a 50 on his celica and his is returnless as well please expain in detail how and why we cant on our cars i just want to run a simple reliable 50-75 shot
Do not buy dry..... period. You need to add more fuel when you add nitrous. I suppose you can try and use a SAFC to dump more fuel in via the injectors, but I'm not sure how much fuel you can flow through the stock injectors.
Honestly, how much money are you saving on the dry kit?.. 50 bucks, 100 bucks? It's not worth it, even if you can find a way to add fuel w/ a dry kit. Get a wet kit from NOS or NX and be able to upgrade in the future.
-PR
Basically, with a dry kit on a stock ecu and no way to increase fuel, you're fucked.
even if you get a Safc and get enough fuel with the nitrous, then your gonna have to lowering the fuel when you want to run just on motor or else you'd be running rich as hell. and then ur gonna have to raise it again..seee what im saying? ... Wet is the way to go.
not to mention that you'd have to tune it on a dyno w/ a wideband.. which ain't cheap.
-pr
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