Reply With Quoteso in my a3 i would need the cams any of the following "K20a/ a2/ z1/ z3
K24a2" and three lobe rockers right what do the rockers come off of? and as far as springs retainers and seats i cant use the ones that are already in my a3 ?
Originally Posted by los
Yep, yep. ^^^
Im using k20z3 cams, three lobe rockers, three lobe rocker shafts, yellow outer and red inner OE valve springs/seats/retainers... the rest is either k24a1(head casting) or k20a3 (the rest of the valvetrain/head internals).
If you look at the above pic you can see the left rocker locked to the VTEC center rocker... the shiny pin is easy to see between them. Below the VTEC crossover, the right rocker rides on its own cam lobe (gas savings).
The left cam lobe is never used. The left valve is on the center VTEC lobe all the time... at the VTEC crossover the pin slides to the right and locks all three rockers together and they all ride on the VTEC lobe (bbbbwwwwaaaaAHHHHHHHH!).
so in my a3 i would need the cams any of the following "K20a/ a2/ z1/ z3
K24a2" and three lobe rockers right what do the rockers come off of? and as far as springs retainers and seats i cant use the ones that are already in my a3 ?
You can use the a3 valve train. Your able to reach a much higher rpm with a2/z1 valvetrain without floating a valve and fucking shit up.
this is probably dumb question, but do k24a1 head and k20a3 head use same exhaust rocker...i want to vtec kill the k24a1 head i bought 3 yrs ago and did nothing with...thanks for any follow up info...(just ordered z1 cams from another user)
K20a3/k24a1 have all the same rocker assembly/ valve train/ cams. The only difference is the beautiful ports on the k24a1 head casting.
thanks for the INFO bro...much appreciated.
I hear different things about price. How much does it really cost to get same power as k20a2 with this setup.
After starting my build planning to go this route, then for many reasons changing my mind. I would suggest swapping instead. In the short and long term you'll be spending less money and getting more power.
I'm now in the hole about the cost of a k20a2 swap, and right now still wouldn't be able to make near the power with the a3
It can go either way for me it was way cheap since my frank swap blew up and I had the a2 head componets just laying around. So I got another k24a1 (that I got for free for doing some work) and did the work on the head then bam cheap power haha.
But for some who dont know how to do the work and have to pay to get it done then the labor starts to add up along with parts you might need... and if you need kpro thats a big chunk right there but it is a much needed part.
all in all just depends on the person (if they are mechanically inclined) and weather or not they can get the parts for cheap.
Even getting the parts for cheap, It cost me about the same as the cost of the swap. That's why I'm just going fully-built a1 head instead. Low end and midrange power, more reliable, and it'll be ready for boost.
Stock for stock... its hard to be the k24a1 head.
The cost is the bad thing about the flipped pin setup... the three lobe rocker assembly can put a ding in your wallet. BUT, if you stumble across it cheap, or in a yard... youre golden.
Mos Def True FTW!
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Definatly true. Depends on the person. Doing this set up but with a 24a1 head in December. Daily D.
Indeed it is. My old car has almost 40k on the locked-rocker setup on a K24A1 now. Might as well be a stock motor.
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