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  1. #1
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Air Assist Valve

    Air Assist Valve: This valve allows for a faster warm-up in cold weather.
    When the coolant temp is at 147 degrees or BELOW the valve is opened.
    The air enters the AAV from the intake tract and routes the unmetered air thru a nipple on the IM, which feeds a cavity in the head behind the IM gasket, and then back thru the IMG and into ports in the fuel injector bosses in the IM. This allows for a leaner mixture, thusly a quicker warm-up.


    Here is a picture of a coolant outlet assembly.

    The AAV is available in two ways. You can buy the whole coolant outlet assembly for a EP3 (here...part# 9 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hond...omponent=E++15 )

    or you can get just the AAV by ordering one from a 07'Si ( here...part#8 https://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hond...ponent=E++0301 )This will require you to remove the coolant outlet assembly to remove/install the AAV if the horizontal leg is not broken.

    The AAV is NOT required to be functional for your engine to operate correctly. If your AAV is damaged you do NEED to remove/plug the lines that go to it from the IM and intake. Your car may take a bit longer to warm up when it is real cold but that is all.

    Another option is to remove the AAV and install a electric coolant temp probe there for a aftermarket gauge.

    Doug
    Last edited by talonXracer; 01-01-2009 at 09:38 AM.
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  2. #2
    Registered User
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    Do I have to take out the assembly to install the valve? Can I get away with just taking off the valve cover for clearance?

  3. #3
    AWD Ricer MR.Pizza's Avatar
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    Good info Talon,

  4. #4
    Registered User phill's Avatar
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    more great info

    nice post doug

  5. #5
    4 TDs in Single Game usedep3's Avatar
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    quick question guys, the AAV is the part in the top of the pic and the coolant outlet assembly is on the bottom, correct?


    Quote Originally Posted by talonXracer View Post
    This will require you to remove the coolant outlet assembly to remove/install the AAV if the horizontal leg is not broken.
    the horizontal leg that doug is talking about is the leg on the AAV or the coolant outlet assembly?

    removing and reinstalling the coolant outlet assembly seems like a bitch and a half
    Green Crew #7

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  6. #6
    Pope of Discordia JCEM's Avatar
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    Honestly, tou're better off just plugging the holes...I noticed no difference running without one, even during a Canadian winter.

  7. #7
    Bonnie...real OG RedSiBaron's Avatar
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    why would you take it off if it works or is this just to say, "if it goes out, bypass it"?
    my ep is white...

    - We can talk numbers all you want, but the bullshit stops when the flag drops...

  8. #8
    Pope of Discordia JCEM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedSiBaron View Post
    "if it goes out, bypass it"?
    That.

  9. #9
    4 TDs in Single Game usedep3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCEM View Post
    Honestly, tou're better off just plugging the holes...I noticed no difference running without one, even during a Canadian winter.
    Quote Originally Posted by RedSiBaron View Post
    why would you take it off if it works or is this just to say, "if it goes out, bypass it"?
    i know you can just bypass the AAV, but i'd rather not. so, the AAV is the black piece on the top?
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  10. #10
    Ignorant Redneck Passenger's Avatar
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    Yes it is. I've jerry rigged mine and have been running it like that for yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeears. No problems really.

  11. #11
    Registered User WhirWoof's Avatar
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    Hello all, relatively new to boosted Hondas and I need some advice from you guys. I have a boosted 05 Si that has this valve and currently the loop that goes from the intake to the valve was cut and a "T" fitting installed to feed vacuum to a distribution block. The block runs the boost gauge, BOV, waste gate controller valve and whatever else is going on in there that needs to have vacuum or boost reading. It was set up this way when I purchased the car and in seeing how the valve works and where it feeds air I am worried that I may not be getting a clean vacuum/ boost reading from this location. Does anyone else have their boosted car set up like mine with a "T" off of this line? Also even if I plug the valve and run the feed right off of the intake side will I get a clean reading? The description makes it sound like it feeds air to the injector bosses under the intake, not directly to the intake itself. Thoughts?

    Thanks,

    -Whirrr

  12. #12
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    It is not the best location for a vacuum port. There are alot of twists and turns. And at 147 degrees coolant temp that valve is open, greatly altering the vacuum signature.

    Yes it feeds air to the injector bosses and then immediately enters the runners. A port near the TB is the best option.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
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  13. #13
    Registered User WhirWoof's Avatar
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    Thanks Talon, I figured it would not be a good location. The problem I am seeing is that the stock intake only has one other location and it's for the brake booster line. Suggestions?

  14. #14
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    Install a oil catch can on the short line from the PCV to the intake mani(cheap DIY filter type works splendidly) and then you can drill and tap the removable plenum floor plate of the intake mani for a nipple, that is what I would do.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  15. #15
    Registered User WhirWoof's Avatar
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    I am not sure that this car has a PCV valve anymore, it seems like they welded bungs on the valve cover that ran to a catch can already. Is there another location for the PVC? I like the idea of tapping the plate on the intake and will give that a shot. Thanks for your help!

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