I cant get the shifter cables to budge. I'm going to try again this weekend when I have more time. I think I'm going to take out the console and try it that way.
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I cant get the shifter cables to budge. I'm going to try again this weekend when I have more time. I think I'm going to take out the console and try it that way.
Finally installed the BCSS. Taking the center console made it so much easier to install. I was so excited to get it in, I forgot to put a little grease on the shifter. Should I go back and do this, or is it ok without it?
I just finished putting in my BCSS... i also added the corsport shifter base alumminum bushings. its feels a hell of a lot better through out the shifts. My only complaint right now will be that it feels extremely tight in the middle/neutral (thats what HE said!!). I'll give it some break in time before i start messing with it again. BTW I think the grease did help a little but also made the job messier than it already is i.e. grease in wounds
Ever notice if yours is the newest revision of the BCSS? Mine did not come with the shifter extension piece, BC said that was the only change they made, eliminate the extension adapter and makde the shaft full length. Haven't put mine in yet so we'll see about the plastic caps.
I just installed my BCSS yesterday. Thread helped out great I got a few things to note though. A couple of you guys complained about it being tight moving back to neutral. Such as not centering by itself. People blamed it on the caps. And whatsvtec said his had wierd pressure and couldn't get his in all the way.
To help with the centering thing pick up a can of spray silicone. Spray lightly on the edges of the white caps and move them around with your fingers to help work the silicone in there. Also spray the silicone on the spring to lube it up a little and any moving part besides the white ball that already has grease on it. It will help out a lot with this and make it feel a little smoother. If your having trouble with getting the shift cables over the white caps don't be scared to use channel locks to push them in all the way it doesn't take that much force at all with the channel locks. But get them seated as far in as possible by hand first.
And I did recieve the newest version. There is no extension anymore.
Also...get the corsport aluminum shifter bushings when you do this too. Those combined with this shifter is a night and day difference!
This thread should be renamed "There Will Be Blood" lol. My hands look like they have eczema now. Anyway it took me about 4 hours to do because that small metal crossmember in my car will not unscrew. But its in! And it feels great so far! Can definitely tell the difference. One quick question, does it matter if the cable housings are tightened? I have them in the slots where they're supposed to be and I don't really wanna mess around with them if I don't have to.
I've been letting my BCSS sit on the shelf for way too long. I think I'll try and install it this weekend.
Done it!!
A little stiff and like others said centering isn't too good. I greased the little white bushings as well as the return spring. So I think it just needs to work in a little more, but its a pita to drive with out the auto centering. Oh, and no blood was spilled on this install. WOOHOO.
Thanks for the DIY, it's good to know going into it that I did indeed need THAT much force to remove the cables from the base, I bent 1 screw driver in the process, LOL, the one on the right popped out with ease though.
After doing the install and comparing the stock vs BCSS, don't feel as confident as I was before that the BCSS is that much better than the NEUSPEED mod.
Those bushings go where the rubber bushings are the ones on the 4 bolts.
how do you swap out the stock honda caps on the shifter cable arms?
I am also having an issue with centering. How do you get the stock white caps off of the stock shifter and how do you get the white caps off of the BCSS?
I also read in another post: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...-shifter/page4
That MTEC Race shifter mechanism springs make your shifter stay in the centered-Neutral position a lot better than the OEM springs. That the strength of the springs return your shifter back to the center position.
Thanks for the How-To. It helped a lot. But getting those damn shifter cables unlocked was a b****!
Could some of you guys add how you handled the shift boot issue? I assume you didn't all buy the TWM one he mentioned.
so im in the middle of this install at this very momment and um im kinda stuck at the part where i removed my dam caps off of the shifter... since the one i bought used didnt come with them... so how tf do i get them onto the shifter? any ideas? stuff is irritating lmao
nvm after 5 minutes i got it in! if anyone wants to know an easy way to get get the white caps back on is grab some needle nose pliers put the cap all the way to the edge of the nub so it cant move then just pinch down on it with the pliers and it should pop right in! well thats how i did it xD
ALSO! been driving the car around all day! installed ADD shifter bushings and put on my old weighted shift knob. It feels quite amazing! i gotta say the bcss was well worth it :D one of my favorite mods so far for sure!
Good write up, will be using it.
just got my BCSS today. waiting till i get home to install. gonna use this write up for sure and ill let you know how it goes. thanks for the DIY write up. doing my research now before i tear into it
Do all you guys have after market clutch kits ? I wanna buy the buddyclub short shift. But dont know if i should get a new clutch first
I don't have aftermarket clutch. Just bushings from CorSport. Will upgrade clutch later though
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I just wanted to say thanks for setting this up. Yes I'm bumping a thread that hasn't been posted to in two years.
Did mine this weekend, and pretty much hated every minute of it. Yes, my knuckles are bloodied, first of all. But did want to share a couple of things that I think weren't included previously. If they were, then I'm repeating - sorry.
1. The left side shift cable (smaller one) takes an 11mm wrench at the top of it. I found that trying to use a channel lock on them didn't allow for enough rotation to get the cables out of the plastic base. So I used the 11mm and a very thin, long flathead - turned it as far as I could from below with the wrench, kept the wrench there and pressure on the cable, then got the flathead in the slot in the top of the locking mechanism, and was able to finish it up by rotating things ccw from the top the rest of the way
2. The plastic caps on the BCSS didn't allow the plastic covers on the cables to lock into place, so I used the OEM caps on the BCSS nubs. Also, if you deform the OEM ones on either the removal or install, they probably won't lock perfectly, either. I had to use the channel locks on one to get it round and short enough for the U clip to lock it in correctly again. Also, I had bought a used OEM cable assembly to see how things went in with the base, and also to have some spare U clips just in case. It helped out tremendously, to visualize the process, and to allow me to try the caps locking into the plastic covers on the cables from outside the car, without fear of anything dropping down into the black hole underneath everything. It was money well spent (it will be on the classifieds shortly, since I don't need it anymore).
3. If you're doing the AL base bushings, I did that before attaching the cables down below. I found it easier, so that things didn't move around on me. I did the top gold screw/bushings first (leaving them very loose) then the bottoms - for the bottoms, I let the bushing fall into the area in between the base and the metal part of the dash that it screws into; they will fall only down to just below the hole; then supported them from below with a finger while I got the gold screw through the hole, then the bushing, then the threads. That ended up working pretty easily.
4. Lastly, make sure that everything is on and working in the center console before putting everything back in. I had a flickering bulb in the HVAC, so decided to change all four bulbs in the console. But now I have no ability to control the temps (green wiring harness I'm sure is not all the way in), my front speakers are working as my rear speakers in the stereo, and my rears are not working at all. Luckily, it's not a big deal to do, but better to do it all at once before pushing everything back in.
It took me longer than it should have, but the directions were very helpful - I couldn't have done it without them. So thanks to all who above me in this thread. Despite the scars, it is worthwhile and the shifting is much crisper now than before. :thumbu:
It’s 2019 and I’m here installing my BCSS. Thank you for the steps . It’s literally like the video on YouTube just in written form 👌🍻
Isn't it fun? Good luck.