Its a catch 22 more hp = more fuel burned...better fuel economy = less hp
but im sure you could use kpro to increase your mpg but you would most likely lose some hp
Sorry, but couldn't find anything in the search. Just wondering if anyone stock or close to stock have gotten kpro and used it to lean out the engine a little to get better mpg(safely) and if so what kind of numbers are you getting? Otherwise anyone elsewho wants to chime in with their own before/after numbers feel free. I'm thinkingabout getting it, just don't want to sacrifice mpg in the low end to gain power at the top. Thanks.
Its a catch 22 more hp = more fuel burned...better fuel economy = less hp
but im sure you could use kpro to increase your mpg but you would most likely lose some hp
yea u can use kpro to get better fuel mileage but you have to know what you are doing...so you should start reading on how to tune..so you could save your money and do it yourself cause tuning is expensive
Not necessarily. The cam, fuel, and ignition maps are 2-dimensional tables indexed on RPM and engine load. You can tweak different sections of the map in different ways. Tune the heavy load sections (WOT and close to WOT) for max power output, and tune the cruising and light-throttle columns for fuel efficiency. It takes a lot of time to get it right, but it can be done.
this is correct....getting good gas mileage for normal driving (i.e. not WOT) involves working with your short and long term fuel trims in k-pro. these can be tuned to give you great gas mileage for your daily driving, in my case i get way better than i did stock. but you will dump fuel of course at WOT and hard driving, especially if you are boosted. it really depends on who tunes the car. some tuners go for max power at the cost of a little less driveablility. some tune for safety and economy. it really boils down to what you the driver wants out of your car.
I was thinking of just creating a seperate map just for better gas mileage
Like if you have a 200 mile trip and the majority of the driving will be on cruise control at 60-65mph just tweaking the rpm range at 60-65 but I am not sure how low the A/F could be and still be safe for the engine.
I'm really looking to just raise the vtec a little bit to say 2500 instead of 2200 and reduce the a/f ratio up to maybe 2500 as well to really pump out the mpgs in town. Right now(you'll all think i'm crazy) I'm shifting at about 2100 to stay out of vtec to get better mpg, but i would like to have longer non-vtec gears so i can skip 4th and go straight into cruising in 5th (at 40mph in town). I was thinking about trying out that diy vtec light to see exactly where it engages because i know that our tachs are off a bit. Did you guys know that if you have a 100k warranty it's extended to 105k becasue of a class action law suit about the odometer being off by over the legal limit of 4%(they say it's only off 5% hence the extra 5k) just wondering if you knew because i saw it on the work papers and asked about it when my cam was getting replaced at the stealership.
Also, all you guys with 6th gears, hows you mpg changed since you upgraded?
i heard about that.... any reasoning behind honda's doings?
If by doings you mean how they set up the engine and such it was for emissions sake. If by the junky accuracy on the speedo/tach...guessing it saved money and they thought no one else would notice. Interestingly enough, in illinois at least in 2003 our car was one of only eleven that earned the epa's smartway certification for emissions because of the ivtec system. The prius didn't make it to the list and the only other civic on the list is a cng civic. I though that was neat, but thats just me.
Dann, read about i-VTEC before you think about changing it. http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43043
Also, you're most likely hurting mileage by shifting at 2100. Engines have a certain RPM range where they are most efficient, and if you shift too low (especially on a 2L engine) you just hurt your mileage. Honda recommends shifting around 3.5k, so go close to that.
I've already read up on the I-VTEC stuff and know about the cam angles and the low engagement point. I wouldn't do anything too drastic, i just want a more efficient engine when i'm not using it for power. I've always heard that engines all have their sweet spots and such, but i've always gotten best mileage from shifting earlier and moving through the gears quicker than from staying in each gear longer. I saw hondas recomendations and thought they were a little high but i may try them. With the metro i got for my dad a while back (1.3l 4cylinder) it was rated for about 38 over all and thats what i got when shifting at the recomended shift points, but i got about 48 when i shifted at 2k, same deal with escort and jetta, earlier you shift, the better the mpg's. I dunno, anyone here experimented with driving conservatively and shifting before vtec versus shifting at 3.5k? i typically get 28-30 mpg city and 32-34 highway. only mod is drop in k&n and ngk iridiums. I have a feeling that maybe i need to shift higher because of the difference in the sohc and ohv engines i'm used to and this dohc i-vtec. but then again on almost every mpg related thread i've read everybody says just drive conservatively and shift before 2200 rpms. Any opinions are welcome. I try to do alot of coasting too lol.
Also, for you six speeders...did you do it yourself and was it hard? I would like to do it and saw the parts are fairly cheap, but i have almost 0 tranny experience. I have done axles, alternator, oil change, tranny oil change, atf pan removal and fluid change, air filter, alternator, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, radiator, heater core, thermostat, hoses, battery, brakes, rotors, throttle cable, radios, dropped engine from vw bug, ...and so on, do you think this is something i could do? I've seen the awesome write up on it, but want to here first hand how bad it was, just dropping the tranny sounds intimidating
moved it for ya to right sub forum. there was a a guy on here that did fuel economy research and he got almost 30-32 mpg i believe. work really well.
I get 34-36 MPG on the highway, and that is a cammed A2 with RBC mani.
Yes you can tune the part throttle to get vastly better MPG than stock. The stock fuel maps are rather fat above idle(idle is where all the emissions testing is done at for tariff and fine purposes) to help keep lean condition warranty repairs/replacements at a minimum.
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