K24A2 Swap Comments

[vbpracer]

First off thanks Skoundrelusa for saving the contents of the thread! This is also a good time to add a few things to the thread since I have had many questions regarding the same questions.


Here is a informative thread for anyone considering a tsx swap, and I hope it will be sticked. I went from a supercharged K20A3 to a stock 04 K24A2 engine. In doing so I had to search and read quite a few threads to find answers to my questions, hence the reason why I chose to create a summation of things I find nessecary to know.

The engine fits and no modification is necessary.

Things you will be using of the A3 are:

-Wireharness
-Throttle body
-Alternator
-Starter
-Tensioner
-Crank sensor
-Thermostat
-AC compressor ( no need to disconnect lines)

Parts you will be using of the k24 are:

-Waterpump
-Oil pump

The powersteering will be removed, since the ep has electronic powersteering.

Thats basically the list of big parts.

Other parts to use:

I used the k24 fuel rail, since the ep3 doesn't fit on the rbb manifold. However, I did use the black piece of plasting guiding the injector clips of off the k24, this way you can clip it onto the fuel rail

You will need the karcepts adapter www.karcepts.com, part number KIM01. You can then use two throttle body gaskets, I used permatex instead.

You will also need the crv bracket, replaces the existing bracket on the passengers side.

Note on the thermostat, when swapping thermostats, use the k24 metal piece, I'm sure you can use the a3 one, but I didn't feel like modifying it to make it fit.

I also had trouble fitting the throttle cable bracket, so right now its only secured by one bolt. This is because its in the way of the fuel line, since I used the k24 fuel rail. Possibly if you use the ep3 fuel rail you wont have this problem.

Since the rbb im postions the throttle body at an angle, your intake will most likely not fit. I used a injen sri 3", and have it positioned it securely using a different elbow.

I also had trouble with the throttle cables sitting to high up against the hood, causing the engine to idle at 2k rpm in my instance. I removed the insulation on the hood and it solved it.

You must remove the map sensor from the tb when using the rbb im, there is a place for it on the im itself. If you dont do this, the tb will not fit.

The stock exhaust manifold will clear the stock sway bar.

You can use your 5 speed transmission, along with the clutch and flywheel. Be sure to torque the flywheel to specs.

You will use your stock k20a3 belt, not sure of the part number. I didn't find an answer before the swap, but I had quite a few different ones laying around.

On the A3 harness, it will be obvious with sensors plug in where. The only ones you can confuse are 2 on the throttle body.

As most of you know, you cannot use the tsx ecu, or pnf ecu, you Must have kpro. In my instance, I kept my stock ecu, bought a pnd kpro'd ecu (02-04 rsx). Just in case I sell I dont have to mess with the immobilizer. Think in advance.

Other comments.

When removing the a3, I dropped it out of the bottom, with everything still attached, then swapped parts.

I had trouble taking my axles off, or intermediate shaft, so I secured them using coathangers, kind of ghetto, but it worked.

You will need a variety of hoses to cover all the vaccuum and coolent ports. Be sure to have a few extra with clamps.

Be sure to replace the oil filter if necessary before installing the engine, just makes if easier. I had to jam a long screwdriver through the filter, since it wouldn't turn.

Be sure to have a couple of jugs of coolent, a can of grease like lithium, a degreaser, and some permatex. I would also suggest to collect all metric bolts from you honda parts, in case you break or strip a bolt

Troubleshooting:

Since your draining all the radiator fluid, and air will be stuck in the lines, you must bleed the system. The way I did this is by letting the engine idle, while having the radiator cap off, preferably with while jacked up. Air will escape coolent will gush out, just make sure to add more. Also take a look at you ECT, mine was about 225F on startup, basically meaning air was still in the lines. When all air was removed it was under 200, if it makes you feel comfortable set cooling fan to come on at a lower temperature.

Another issue that I had was P0335 CRK sensor no signal, in my case, there was a bad connection between the crank sensor and the plug.

I also had trouble with the newer tsx stock basemap, which caused my VSS, AC and temperature gauge not to work. This is an easy fix. You must open kmanager and go to parameters-misc and select normal operation for multiplexer. Also make sure that "Use VTP as AC switch input" is deselected, to ensure that the compressor will work fine.




If you are coming from a cammed or I/H/E k20a3 you will definately feel the power. I even noticed a difference between the jrsc a3 and the tsx. Lots more torque and its pretty quick too. All in all well worth the money. It is a good platform to start with. Having had the jrsc for a few years, and now the k24a2, I will never go back to the A3, never say never though. Since then I have added the jrsc again and it makes a huge difference being tuned with good bolt ons.


I hope this thread is informative to anyone contemplating the tsx swap, for any questions on the swap pm me, and I will do my best to help you. Same goes for any jrsc related questions.

As for aftermarket exhaust and raceheaders, there are several different options. I have had the Jackson Racing raceheader and the Buddy Club raceheader, both fit. Since the k24 sits up higher there will be less clearance, and the header may rattle even when removing the cats heatshield. I suggest adding some esmm or some new motor mounts.

The stock swaybar will not fit, you have to use the em2 (03) I think its 15.9mm. The newer ones are a little thicker.

-Brad

[vbpracer]

Answered question here Madlorglk

Permatex is a high temperature sealent, its the white stuff you see by the oil pan example. Whenever you add the karcepts adapter just add a little permatex to make a good seal, honestly no sense on wasting money on the gaskets, I actually ran without for years. You also dont need an k24 exhaust manifold gasket, just use the stock ep one.

Also it shouldn't be difficult removing the belt, use the tensioner pulley.

[MadLorEP3]

Answered question here Madlorglk

Permatex is a high temperature sealent, its the white stuff you see by the oil pan example. Whenever you add the karcepts adapter just add a little permatex to make a good seal, honestly no sense on wasting money on the gaskets, I actually ran without for years. You also dont need an k24 exhaust manifold gasket, just use the stock ep one.

Also it shouldn't be difficult removing the belt, use the tensioner pulley.

thanks bro
I actually used the info you posted above, along with davis's and other hatchers info on making a list myself

There are some parts on my list that I have questions on so I will post it up in a bit. I was gonna start my own thread but theres just too many k24a2 into ep3 threads already, so if you dont mind I'll post my list here

The reason that I was considering replacing the gaskets to the aftermarkets ones lke p2r was because I read that they help with heat transfer or insulation
Im not really sure how it works but Ive read about people who have used the hondata intake mani gasket say that not only does it add hp but you can even kiss the intake mani after running the car cuz it still wont be hot

Just the seal itself without any gaskets dont seem like a good idea to me
Im probably not understanding all this completely but is the purpose of the gasket to seal and make sure no air leaks or does it also help with insulation?

[MadLorEP3]

It would be nice if we can have one official k24a2 for noobs thread
where a list of parts needed would be provided ALL IN ONE PLACE
but if noobs still had questions then they can go ahead and ask

Im talkin about me of course...

[Andrew]

thank god this is back! whoohoo!

[ep-unit]

k24a2 FTW.....!!!

[MadLorEP3]

So for the k24a1 you have to use the a3 water pump
but for the k24a2 you have to use the k24a2 water pump

si o no???

Also what did you mean when you said k24 metal piece
with regards to the thermostat housing???

[MadLorEP3]

Can anyone that has done this swap kindly scan thru the my list just to clarify some of the questions that I have? Thanks


K24A2EP3 PARTS LIST (w/the cheapest price I’ve found so far)

1) KPRO: ($860)
PNF (EP3)
OR
PRB (02-04 rsx-s: Has reverse lock out for 6 speed)

2) Motormounts:
AVID motormounts: 75a passenger, 62a driver, 62a rear ($319)
OR
INNOVATIVE Billet motormounts: 75a passenger, 62a driver, 62a rear ($306)

INNOVATIVE Billet front mount 62a ($115) [Is this needed of should I keep it the front
stock????]

3) K24 Passenger Side Bracket:
OEM CRV Passenger Side Bracket (11910-PPA-000) $27.18
OR
P2R CRV Passenger Side Bracket ($59) [Is this worth the extra cheese???]

4) KARCEPTS RBC adapter KIM01 ($60)

5) GASKETS: (I’m using ep3 TB with karcepts adapter, rbb intake mani & type-s dcrh)
TB Gaskets (2)
OEM EP3 (2) (16176-PRB-A01 $2.90)
OR
P2R EP3 (2) ($15-$29) [Is this worth the extra cheese???]

Exhaust Manifold Gasket OEM EP3 (1) (18115-PRB-A01 $9.86)

6) SERPENTINE BELT
685K7 (7 rib, 68.5”) [Not sure where to get this???]
OR
OEM A3 Belt [Can’t find a picture or part number for this???]

7) EM2 15.9 mm (02-04 civic ex) Front Sway Bar (Front Spring Stabilizer)
2003 Em2 51300-S5D-A01 $44.37

8) RSX-S DCRH (Got it)

9) RSX-S Midpipe [Does it matter what year???]

10) FLUIDS:
Eneos Engine oil 5 qt + Hamp Oil Filter (Got it)
Honda Antifreeze/Coolant type II Radiator Fluid ($10.92)
Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (3 qt) (Green Label $4.99)

11) High Temp Liquid Gasket:
HONDABOND HT Silicone ($11.59-Got it)
OR
Permatex ($1.19)

[vbpracer]

Yes using 'plastic' gaskets helps with heat transfer.I had the hondata img and it really made no difference for me. I used it in between the jrsc and the head. The goal is to reduce the intake temps. And again anything will help, but will you notice any difference? No.

The belt I would just go to the local autoparts store, and say you need a belt for an ep, they will give you the right size.

I would stick witht he oem crv bracket. Not sure what benefit the other has.

Dont forget you will also need new bushing to use for the sway.

Also I wouldn't go with a prb ecu, unless you have a six speed tranny. Pnd or pnf are cheapest wat to go.

As for fluids, that is more of a personal choice to me. And the hondabond is actually good, no need to get permatex then.

Midpipe, forget the sizes, but I think that the newer type s, 05 06, actually are a hair larger in diameter.

I did use the k24a2 waterpump after pulling it appart, but mainly because I didn't feel like taking the one of the a3. The metal piece, coolent housing, I used it from the k24a2 because of fitment, but used the ep3 thermostat.

[MadLorEP3]

Yes using 'plastic' gaskets helps with heat transfer.I had the hondata img and it really made no difference for me. I used it in between the jrsc and the head. The goal is to reduce the intake temps. And again anything will help, but will you notice any difference? No.

The belt I would just go to the local autoparts store, and say you need a belt for an ep, they will give you the right size.

I would stick witht he oem crv bracket. Not sure what benefit the other has.

Dont forget you will also need new bushing to use for the sway.

Also I wouldn't go with a prb ecu, unless you have a six speed tranny. Pnd or pnf are cheapest wat to go.

As for fluids, that is more of a personal choice to me. And the hondabond is actually good, no need to get permatex then.

Midpipe, forget the sizes, but I think that the newer type s, 05 06, actually are a hair larger in diameter.

I did use the k24a2 waterpump after pulling it appart, but mainly because I didn't feel like taking the one of the a3. The metal piece, coolent housing, I used it from the k24a2 because of fitment, but used the ep3 thermostat.

thanks for the info bro
yeah I didnt include it in the list but I also have a bunch of upgrades that Im doing to the tranny and a tsx 6 spd is one of them, along with LSD,
and still not sure about a 4.3 FD??? stg II clutch &11.5lb flywheel

ok I will add the bushing for the sway

What I dont get is y I will be using a belt for the ep when my motor is k24
to be honest I dont even know what the belt attaches to
is one of them the crank pulley?

ok no permatex, had the hondabond for my bike, its still full

I know that 05-06 type s midpipe is larger but thats just an upgrade right
I mean the 02 type s midpipe that ihave should bolt up just fine to my type s dcrh

got it ep3 thermostat with k24 coolant housing, and either k24 or ep waterpump

thanks bud

[vbpracer]

The k24 crank pulley and ep3 are the same I believe and yes the belt goes around around the cp, plus you dont have the powersteering pump and using the ep automatic tensioner. The backside, flush side, of the belt will always touch the smooth pulleys.

Yes the 02 midpipe should bolt right up.

[MadLorEP3]

The k24 crank pulley and ep3 are the same I believe and yes the belt goes around around the cp, plus you dont have the powersteering pump and using the ep automatic tensioner. The backside, flush side, of the belt will always touch the smooth pulleys.

Yes the 02 midpipe should bolt right up.

cool thanks

Ive been looking at the part numbers for the em2 front sway
em2 refers to 01-05 civic coupe ex right?

01-02 civic ex coupe 51300-S5D-A01
03-05 civic ex coupe 51300-S5D-A02

I know that Im looking for the 15.9mm front sway but I wonder which one of these 2 it is? the bushings have different part numbers as well so Im assuming there are 2 diff sizes

[vbpracer]

Its the earlier one, I can verify the part number tonight for you if necessary.

[MadLorEP3]

Its the earlier one, I can verify the part number tonight for you if necessary.

ok so 01-02
this might be it since I know that

well club rsx lists the part 51300-S5D-A01
and describes it as being 25mm

that would be great if you can verify part number later

[EP_EJAY]

very informative stuff right here!