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  1. #31
    Registered User AKEP's Avatar
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    man, i hate to say it, but i got 29.44 mpg on like +20,000mile oil with whatever i felt like throwing in and filling up when it got low, the other day, and a little over 34mpg on the road trip before that, on a (very rough) street tune. along with a bunch of 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. i think most of the oil in the motor is either 5-20 or 5-30...lol...

    i stopped caring for the motor, since i figured out i was going to do a swap.
    Quote Originally Posted by VividSI View Post
    i think that too often, 3,500 should be min and 5,000 should be max especially if you using mobil 1 because its really good oil.
    I'm pretty sure i've read somewhere from mobile 1, that you cold def run about 10k on the oil before they recommend a change. but i guess the way we romp on the eps all the time, 5 would be a good time to change.

    i think i've done everything that you wouldn't want to do with oil and engines...and i stilll see normal oil consumption at 3-5k intervals, still good on gas and all that. no leaks. 106k miles on the engine. idk, i dont see the big thing about oil in an a3.

  2. #32
    GDM Lights Installed Draw7Seven's Avatar
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    Yeah, there are plenty of drivers out there who show intervals as high as 10-12k miles being acceptable even by oil analysis. BMW only changes mine every 15k. If you're full synthetic, I think it's sort of silly to change every 3k. But I'm probably underqualified for this conversation.
    -Matt-
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyu View Post
    If I wanted power I would have kept my neon

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Draw7Seven View Post
    Yeah, there are plenty of drivers out there who show intervals as high as 10-12k miles being acceptable even by oil analysis. BMW only changes mine every 15k. If you're full synthetic, I think it's sort of silly to change every 3k. But I'm probably underqualified for this conversation.
    Possibly underqualified, but still correct.

  4. #34
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    I've been running 0W-20 since this December. Makes a HUGE difference, IMO, when starting the car when it's -20F to -35F out. When it's that cold I'm happy to get 25mpg around town and 30mpg interstate. When it warms up I plan on splitting the difference (from the specs I've looked at) between 5W-20 and 5W-30 by running 0W-30. Had my cam replaced last summer on a steady diet of 5W-20 but the more I've read from people on which cam (exhaust or intake) and which cylinder the lobe went bad on, I can't imagine it's an oil issue. I had one lobe go bad on 2 cams. And that lobe was TOAST. If it was the oil, and not metallurgy, wouldn't more than one lobe have had at least some scuffing or marks? That's why I'm not totally sold on oil being the culprit.

  5. #35
    Registered User beechstreet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VividSI View Post
    im not doing an oil analysis, yes, 04, 115,000, hondata reflash, CAI, Comptech header, High flow cat, tanabe exhaust, denso spark plugs, hondata heat sheild.
    tsk tsk tsk

  6. #36
    ephatch member Mighty_Mouse's Avatar
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    Anyone wanting to run 0w20 in their A3 would be well advised to run Eneos, Amsoil, Redline or Fuchs. Those are the top 0w20s available. Fuchs is tough to get in North America and not worth the expense here. Eneos used to be available at Toyota dealers but they switched to Mobil a few months ago.

  7. #37
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    Any updates on oil consumption, mpg, engine replacement? ;)

  8. #38
    ephatch member Mighty_Mouse's Avatar
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    No oil consumption, more mpg and no engine replacement if using a quality 0w20 like Eneos, Amsoil, Redline, etc.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mighty_Mouse View Post
    No oil consumption, more mpg and no engine replacement if using a quality 0w20 like Eneos, Amsoil, Redline, etc.
    Was actually refering to the OP, but what testing have you done to come to that conclusion?

  10. #40
    ephatch member Mighty_Mouse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul 631 View Post
    Was actually refering to the OP, but what testing have you done to come to that conclusion?
    1. drive car
    2. check oil
    3. check mpg
    4. check VIN tag on engine
    5. LOL at ricers running 5w40 in their 160HP engines

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mighty_Mouse View Post
    4. check VIN tag on engine
    High theft area eh? just messing with you.

    Anyway, thanks for making that important connection between horsepower output and proper oil grade. ;)
    Last edited by Paul 631; 02-21-2011 at 07:51 AM.

  12. #42
    ephatch member Mighty_Mouse's Avatar
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    Nope. Read the post a few more times.

  13. #43
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    No use arguing over your ignorant comments, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Board=3&page=1 , read over what has worked & what hasn't...

  14. #44
    ephatch member Mighty_Mouse's Avatar
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    ^^^ Way over your head, I guess. LOL

  15. #45
    Since 03 Baby! ImportCustomx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VividSI View Post
    i drove pretty hard on a full tank of 89 octane and got 26mpg. then the next tank with the same fuel with conservative driving was 27mpg. I then got 28mpg on 93 octane and im on another tank of 93 again to check the results. the oil level has been the same so i guess i just had to put more in it after the first drive because it went down to the min level once but its fine now.
    what about air temperature? humidty? tire pressure? are you driving the same route? elevation changes? these are all factors in gas mileage also. youll never get 100% results unless in a controlled environment..like a dyno.... go sit on a dyno till the car runs out of gas driving one way..then drive conservative next time.
    be jealous :P

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