Reply With Quotewell either you can build your own kit or buy one from like a Greddy or Jackson Racing kit. Companys like Fluidyne, Perma-cool, Mocal, B&M, supply parts for you to make your own kit plus do an oil filter relocation if you want.
so i was thinking of running an oil cooler for my jrsc. is it worth it and if so which one would be worth getting
well either you can build your own kit or buy one from like a Greddy or Jackson Racing kit. Companys like Fluidyne, Perma-cool, Mocal, B&M, supply parts for you to make your own kit plus do an oil filter relocation if you want.
The easiest way to run an oil cooler would be by using a sandwich adapter that fits in between the block and the oil filter. A bunch of companies make them and they allow you to run a inlet and outlet hose directly off of the adapter. Then you can simply use any size radiator/heat exchanger you want. Just make sure you compensate for the increased volume of oil you will need because of the lines and heat exchanger. I am not 100% sure that the stock oil pump system would be able to pressurize all of this though.
I've also herd that k series pump don't have the pressure for a big aftermarket cooler. You might have better luck getting the a2 oil cooler.Originally Posted by jerseyjew
take a look at these two articles
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...des/index.html
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ade/index.html
I have to agree.
Unless the OP is running the track, IMO it's waste. You'll never see prolonged high temps. I dyno'd my K20a /jrsc and and oil cooler, I lost 15 hp due to VTC not being able to activate at high RPM's. VTC is activated by oil pressure, and from what we could tell from my dyno runs, VTC needs more pressure than VTEC. Because VTEC was working but VTC was not. If the OP is trying to deal with heatsoak, WI (alcohol & water) is the best way to go, better than a aftercooler, IMO.
Christian
Unless you are doing road course stuff you don't need one and even if you are doing road course stuff I'm not sure how much you need one. I bought one and it turned out it had a leak in it so wasn't able use it (waiting on a replacement) but ran an event at Road Atlanta and the highest oil temps I saw were 260 at the end of a 20 minute session and keep in mind this was in August so it was hot as hell.
I have to disagree (respectfully) . K series pumps have very high pressure and very high flow.
K20A3s and K24A1 have a higher flow at lower RPMs than do the A2 versions. I have had a few of my own and work on many many others (friends cars). I assume it is since it engages VTEC at a very low RPM range vs the A2 models.
All my K series motors have (or had) over 80psi above 3krpms. The A2 had less oil pressure at 2k rpms than my A1/A3. There is a rumor that the A1 and A3 pumps will foam the oil at high RPMs but I haven't encountered this but if true it could be because they flow more at lower RPMs and cannot handle the higher ones.
B series motors (or just about any other motor I know) dont have close to the pressure and lfow as the Ks. This allows for a narrower rod end also without increase in wear over the Bs.
Last edited by cukali; 09-13-2008 at 03:56 PM.
As for getting an oil cooler, its a good idea, but best to geta water cooled system than an air cooled one. In winter months it cool too much unles you have a thermostatic valve in your sandwich plate. Porsche has them and you can buy one for our cars. They stay closed at normal and low temps and open/blend at high temps.
A little off topic, but from what I understand the K20A3, K24A1/3/4 oil pumps are overdriven more so than the K20A2/Z1/Z3 pumps are. That is why they provide better low RPM oil pressure and have problems are high rpm. My understanding is that it is because of the low VTEC thresholds on these motors that need the oil at lower RPMs.
While what you are talking about should work just fine I still think it is not a good idea unless he is tracking the car extensively. It adds complexity and the potential for problems without actually doing anything positive. The motor just flat doesn't need any oil cooling.
Z3 pump spins at the same rpm as the A3's pump, but it is internally much different. Here is a link showing them all disassembled http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42992
The A2's oil to coolant cooler is a nice upgrade in my opinion, it isnt just about cooling on a DD. The cooler does cool, but it provides a more STABLE oil temp.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
I dont know of any production turbo cars without an oil cooler of some type. You should get an oil cooler if it gives you a piece of mind. Its not so much the oil your protecting, its the bearsand pistons...they are cooled by the oil and 40F hotter oil means those components are running even hotter than 40F norm. I dont boost more than 15 seconds for this very reason I dont have a cooler. Granted we have boosted motors and can expect less engine life, but wear and failure comes fast with hotter temps.
I copied this......
The ideal operating range for engine oil is 180°F through 200°F. While operating within this range, the oil works as a lubricant, coolant, and cleansing agent in the engine. Modern engines generally run with radiator coolant temperatures between 200°F and 220°F with oil temperature ranges between 20°F and 75°F HOTTER. In other words, when the engine is performing flawlessly, the engine oil is already overheating! Oil that exceeds 220°F rapidly loses its ability to lubricate and cool causing accerlerated fatigue and premature component failure.
Last edited by cukali; 09-13-2008 at 07:51 PM.
He isn't talking about a turbo motor he is talking about a supercharged one. A turbo motor places much greater stresses on the oiling system.
Yes, 260 is very hot, but that was at the racetrack under extreme conditions. Conditions that most cars just don't see on the street. I will be running an oil cooler the next time I go to the track, but that won't be a fair comparison because that will most likely be in either December or February and the ambient temps won't be anything like what they were in August. If I run at Road Atlanta next August we'll see what happens then.
Sitting in bumper to bumper traffic with the A/C going in August for an extended time will cause oil temps to soar.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
My car can sit at idle with no airflow and never get over 160 degrees oil temp measured at the pan. With normal around town driving and a little highway cruising (no real traffic) I have not seen it get to 180. This is without the oil cooler installed although it does have the lines for it still installed and the remote oil filter as well. Those do add some extra cooling all on their own.
My motor may not be a fair comparison though I admit.
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