Well I'm about to pass 100k miles on the ol' K20a3!! Time to start saving up! My goal is to be able to swap in another motor around 140,000-160,000 miles. I've been researching and I found that the K20a2 and the K24a2 make about the same power stock and I'm sure the K20a2 swap is a lot easier. Would it be better to go with the K20 or the K24?
Couple questions:
What are the power differences, that is, if I'm shooting for 300-400 hp with equivalent tq what would I be better off with?
Boost? If I choose boost over all motor which one is more "boost ready"?
Ease of installation? Which one is easier? Less downtime etc...
Also, feel free to throw some links to helpful stickies, threads!
Thanks in advance!
Well both have about 200 hp but the k24a2 has about 20lbs more torque. I was planning to do a k20a2 because of how easy it is and kpro not needed like the k24 but where I live k24s tend to be cheaper! Think I might go this route. But I decided I'm not doing anything until I get kpro.
Also checkout the ep3 swap only section. There is a compendium of info there with everything you're asking. It's a sticky
With the heft of the EP i would k24 it. The additional TQ even with the less expensive k24a1 longblock is worth it.
If i knew then what i knew now, i would definitely scoop up a k24a1 longblock, OEM 310cc injectors, an OEM 2007 Accord header with the OEM donut gasket/collector, have a 2.5 'test pipe' made from the header donut gasket to the three bolt flange of an OEM 05 RSX-S midpipe and the OEM EP axleback... and run it off of the stock EP3 ECU.
The header is inexpensive as hell from a yard (BIG primaries too), and having the custom 'test pipe' made will for sure resolve any k24 swaybar setup. The RSX-S midpipe is as big as OEM gets. The 310cc injectors will add enough fuel for you to safely run the k24a1 without KPro, even with a CAI.
Power? Should net a solid 190whp/175wtq at way less than half the cost of ANY k2Xa2 setup with a race header and KPro. You can drive it daily while you save for other goodies... and if you choose to build the k24a1 you can... as all k24a2 components either swap on, or into the block.
Problems? None. It would basically be bolt in and run minus the custom 'test pipe'... SAFELY.
Didn't think about that, I'll probably start looking into the k24a1 but I'm going to have kpro within the next month so that won't be a problem.Originally Posted by Ba82Ep3
Why the 2007 accord header? 190hp estimate with kpro right? Just seems a little high. But sounds interesting!
sorry to thread jack. will a k24a1 from an automatic work with a k20a2 6 speed?
Yes with KPro. And nah i think it will be dead on...
Fo sho will. : )
Because its cheap as balls, solves k24 swaybar issues easily (did i mention cheaply), the primaries are plenty big, and it makes killer power for the $...
As I just said in another thread, an em2 sway with stock exhaust header from an A3 will clear with inches of clearance, using a stock cat or similar. Primaries are even the same size.Because its cheap as balls, solves k24 swaybar issues easily (did i mention cheaply), the primaries are plenty big, and it makes killer power for the $...
The accord header looks better, but it must be custom fit,and they don't come with the colar normally so you have to get one and make it work with your stock cat, too much work for me,
Hey captain, you used the stock ep header and cat? I have a the Megan shorty and tp and would like to make it work with a k24 some day...
all stock header and cat. I am going to go to the skunk alpha soon probably, but god only knows if they fit, if skunk was smart they would have thought ahead and done it so it fits an ep with a k24, guess ill find out.
so i found a guy here locally would the k20a2 be much easier to swap in our ep3?
i also have anther shop telling me to k24a4 it he can do it for 450 and then the labor 750 so would be 1500 to be k24a4
i just dont know about the a4 i would prefer to get the k24a2 but i know they can be pretty $$$
the k20a2 guy wants around 1200
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