Think of the k24a1 as the big brother of the k20a3. Same 2 lobe cam setup, same engine harness connections, same accessories (water pump crank pulley etc) and the intake and exhaust manifolds are interchangeable. The JRSC manifold is designed for this type of head, and actually uses an adapter plate for any of the k series heads that have the water port as part of the intake manifold (where the upper rad hose attaches to the engine, k24a2/k20z3).
Your only real concern during bolt on purchase would be a race header. Because the k24a1 is essentially a stroked and bored k20a3, the block deck height is 19mm taller. This raises the head the same amount. If you bought a race header while you still have a k20, and you had intent to run a k24, you might wanna invest in a k24 header so you can have the chassis clearance... and not have to buy a header twice.
I have worked on a few k24a1's with graduating setups like this... a friend even running the k20a3 ECU with 310's and full I/RH/E didnt lean out his setup. As a matter of fact, he was real close to stoich and the setup ran really well. Adding KPro and some street tuning only found him maybe 10whp and 4wtq more. If i remember correctly... he dyno'd 190whp 180wtq.
Odds are you could safely use the JRSC Street Kit w/Power Card with the stock k20a3 ECU/310cc injectors on a simple bolt on k24a1. I know the power card runs rich, and even though the intake header and exhaust (I/H/E) would lean out the setup... you would likely be safe. Worse case you just leave your catalytic converter on to add some exhaust restriction to help richen it back up some.
That would likely put you in the 220whp 195wtq region... safely... and on the cheap. Buy KPro later on, and open up a world of new options for yourself. If i knew what i know now, and had to do it again... thats the route i would take.
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