awesome! great pics
The rotor in the IAC can sieze and cause a wide range of issues. If it siezes in a open position, it will act like a vacuum leak. If it siezes in a closed position, the engine will want to die at idle and will require the TB butterfly be slightly open to run.
The rotor can sieze-up rather easily, especially when you have a aftermarket intake and/or disable the TB heater, due to condensation forming in the IAC's internal passageway.
So take a Dremel and cut slots in the 5pointed tamperproof screws retaining the IAC to the bottom of the TB and remove them with a straightslot screwdriver. Now take that same Dremel and slot the screws retaining the electrical portion to the rotor and passageway and seperate the two parts like this,
You can see the carbon and dirt deposits in the passageway in this pic.
Now clean the passageway with a brake cleaner and toothbrush. Drain all the cleaner and put the IAC passageway submerged in penetrating oil for a few hours.
Now take a drill and some spare vacuum/fuel tubing, a piece of a bic pen and spin that rotor. Try to leave some oil in the passageway for lubrication, but watch out the oil will be thrown around everywheres if you are not carefull.
IF AT THIS POINT the rotor does not spin fairly freely, the IAC will need to be replaced. Eventually the rotor will sieze again, but adding a little light oil into the IAC port in the bottom of the TB at your oil change time and before storage will stave this off for awhile.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
awesome! great pics
am I correct in assuming you need to take the TB off to do this?
Ed~
Great post, the drill and vac tube method is genius.
im bumping this up cause im going to do this tomorrow.
Last edited by jzsickcivic; 05-11-2009 at 12:43 PM.
bump for this. just finished doing this and now she's back to normal...i had no problems what so ever
great FYI!!!
Did u have to replace the TB gasket or was it fine?
Ima bump this back up, Should be a sticky, was a bytch to find with that half azz search thingy
I just did this and it was a lot easier then I thought, and make sure you got a dremel handy because you may need it for the philips head screws that hold the IACV onto the throttle body. But man it idles so much better and when i let off the gas my RPM's don't drop to 200 rpm's and then slowly raise back up to 600 rpm's at a stop.
Yeah the search feature sucked for this DIY. I see you have some allen bolts in the pic Doug. Looks like you replaced the slotted OEM bolts im assuming? Any info on what size/pitch they are?
I just installed the PRC and now my IAC is acting up. Idle is up to 1100 at times... and rarely dropping to normal after the car warms up. I DIDNT install a new TB gasket (it wasnt torn or damaged in any way, the TB just popped off the PRB with gasket intact)... so im thinking i probably have a slight vacuum leak there. It didnt do it at first, so its probably just popped up because of a few heating cycles.
Nope havent been outside yet. LOL I heard it start raining last night so i didnt even try to get started on it. Once the wife gets back with the FG ill be able to run and pickup some new fasteners. I HATE flathead screws as much as asparagus coated in castor oil. Call me anal but IDK. haha :tehehe:
one step that i would add to this (since you do need to take off your tb to do this) is once you get everything back together and the coolant lines on dont forget to run the car for a little with the rad cap off so that you can get the bubbles out from when you took the lines off the iac
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