So did this about a year ago, got a newer unit that I cleaned up really well and am going to swap in.
WTF?! How much coolant is supposed to come out of the upper nipple when you pull that hose?! I had a little bit last time around, but this time the stuff just keeps flowing out! Not just dripping, either. We're talking steady stream.
I finally popped the hose back on and left it just now to see what you guys thought. Is everything just under too much pressure? Pulled th radiator cap hoping that would defuse the situation a bit, but no dice.
Ideas? I can't have coolant steadily flowing from whatever opening the whole time I'm working, that's just a giant mess!
HALP!
Problem is the coolant is currently flowing from the throttle body. Like, I pull the upper of the two coolant lines running to the TB, and fluid just keeps flowing from that nipple on the TB.
Guess, what, I'll have to clamp off the lower hose first? Damn, this was way simpler last time around for some reason!
FFFUUUUU
Maybe due to the temperature difference? Is it colder now than then?
Sounds like that may be your only option, or do a coolant flush too.
Man. Wound up just using the two bolts from the TB to plug the two coolant lines and then zip tying them so they were raised a bit...I can't believe how much coolant came out of that TB though!
Like...it was a lot! Damn Honda!
Thks nice diy im a do it tomorow :)
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Guys... New to the forum but long time Honda owner (14)... My IACV went out only AFTER I cleaned it. This is the first Honda I can not permanently trouble shoot. Reinstalled it 5 times. No vaccum leaks, even a new IACV, TPS, still the idle issue is there. Did the relearn 6 times after each removal and reinstall and checked every possible avenue (yes even the coolant), except the actual connector to the IACV. I've determined THAT to be the issue since it's getting NO voltage. Without attacking the engine bay to trace wires I fixed this POS issue with a can of beer. Yes... A can of beer. While beating my head in frustration I had a Fosters premium. I looked at my throttle body and remember plugging the hole to check if the idle would become normal and it did while troubleshooting. So... I cut up the can of beer into a 4x2" strip and added a liberal amount of blue gasket maker (smooth and flat) to the strip of aluminum (has to be a large piece so the mod doesn't get sucked into the intake manifold EVER). Yes the gasket maker makes an almost permanent bond so the risk of intake suction is less then 1% IMHO. I applied and then removed a test piece and had to use pliers to remove the strip once it cured. So the bond is definitely safe (yet do it at your own risk). The end result... Check engine light went out, idle is at 850 and no bouncing rpms. The ONLY draw back is that you have to warm the car up manually. Otherwise when you start the car it will go straight to 850 then dip to around 500 then back to 850. So the car won't get warm as it should on its own. Since this is my commuter and toy, I can live with it. My primary ride is a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara loaded to the tits.
Anyhow I hope this will help anyone who is having the same problem that Ive been having.
IACV from Honda = $189
TPS = $59
Spark Plugs = $48
3 felpro TB gaskets = $21
2 IACV gaskets = $6
DC air intake (just because) = $100
3 weekends troubleshooting over and over = $?
Cost to actually fix this issue? A can of Fosters Premium beer $3
Last edited by civic si hb; 06-01-2009 at 04:50 PM.
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