Someome with more experience hopefully will chime in, but I do not think that the type-r ecu will work stock for the A2. Most likely you will pay more for the type-r ecu than for an A2 one. Why pay more for less (no immobilizer)? Also the type-r won't hold a candle to a K-pro'd A2 ecu. Get the motor running right first, then down the road, Kpro your A2 ecu and then more options have you will...
Doesn't the Type-R have also limited MPH? I thought I read that somewhere.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
i just printed out the instructions from hondata and the guy at the dealer followed it step by step and got it done.
like i said before the procedure takes about 10 minutes.
the first dealer i went to wanted to charge me $90 because they said it would take them one hour of labor which equals $90.
i went to another honda dealer and spoke with one of the workers instead of going straight to the service advisor. i just payed him $40 cash and i was in and out in not time lol.
I've used a PRC ECU in my EK with a K20a2 swap. Its not worth the money, they still go for about half the price of a Kpro. When I'd hit 180km/h its like hitting a brick wall, also Vtec kicks late and I found it very easy to drop out of vtec with the 04 RSX-S tranny.
On the other hand its a great way to get your swap running straight out of your garage. And there always people on K20a.org looking for PRC ECUs so there is a good resale market for it.
Last edited by Gilmour; 05-02-2008 at 11:03 AM.
Not worth the money. Drive the car gentle straight to the dealer on the A3 ecu. Don't rev the motor past 3K and you will be fine. The motor isn't running "properly", but it will start and drive the car....don't take the comments of it "running like shit" too literally. Don't be stupid (trying to rev, race, wait a week, driving agressive) and you will be fine.
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