I'm gonna say no, the cutouts don't look the same. Are there any part numbers or anything on there?
[stole this image from here]
Well guys i need the alingment pins for what i thought was a K20A flywheel that i picked up today, I dont know why i didnt double check myself, but according to photo's, it's not a OEM K20A. I put it on a scale at a shipping center and it's weight is a SCANT 9.5lbs. I am thinking possibly an ACT Prolite? I dont know, i need help guys, im not going to pay to have this cut and reinstall it myself if it's a cheap no name. anyone got a suggestion?
I'm gonna say no, the cutouts don't look the same. Are there any part numbers or anything on there?
[stole this image from here]
Last edited by Twisted-X; 07-16-2010 at 05:29 PM.
Not sure, but it isnt a ACT fly. At 9.5 lbs it would probably be a better fly than the Prolite.
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Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
you think so?
you think it'd be safe to use? if it's a cheapie you dont think that'll hurt engine harmonics? and plus the pressure plate alignment pins, there are 3, i only have 2 of them :( are they removable from the stocker? i dont wanna throw off balance at all
I would NEVER run any flywheel without having it spun balanced first, especially after having it machined. Also do not forget to add a washer behind the throwout pivot ball or the engagement range of the slave will be adversly affected, this is the reason why Honda specifies that the Kseries fly not be machined, but replaced.
The pins should be the same as it still uses a clutch meant for a Kseries, and you need all of them.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
When you remove material from the flywheel, the pressure plate will also move closer to the block, this extra distance takes the slave to it's maximum travel, add a stage2 clutch or simply wear the stockie out and it changes the engagement enough that it is right at the floor at full pedal travel. The throwout pivot ball is screwed into the trans case and is what the throwout arm pivots on, the washer placed between the pivot ball and case will compensate for the excessive travel.. The engine, trans would have to be seperated.
ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !
"Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"
You know I've seen you mention this a few times, and am replacing a clutch soon (going back to OEM-ish, type-s clutch/pp and ITR fly). You got a pic of that setup? The fly is used w/about 20k on it, so it will need machining, and I'd like to make sure the clutch travel is correct too.
If you could post a pic/diagram of where that washer is going, that would be sweet.
When I had the flywheel machined on the Z, they gave me a spacer to use behind it that took up the extra .5 mm or so of material they removed. The machinist said he measured the machined flywheel and looked up how thick a new one should be and picked out the closest shim. I've been using it that way for years and haven't had any problems.
Hmmm...also something to look in to. Guess it just depends on the shop you use, how thorough the guy is, etc.
Pretty positive it's either a act pro or street lite fly. The street light is a lb or 2 heavier that the pro-lite
Yeah I think that is an Exedy man. Not sure though.
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