i know they fit em2's fine so im pretty sure they would fit the ep ok
i know they fit em2's fine so im pretty sure they would fit the ep ok
03 with HFP suspension. 19-21mm ( I believe) rear sway from RSX. 15" Si wheels, 205/55/r15
Daily Driver, need alignment. Would like to prolong tire life. getting -camber wear currently (inside wear)
have taken this with me before http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf for specs.
techs look at me crazy since most plug the vehicle into the computer and go to town. They act like it's in japanese (maybe it is)
Is there a standard conversion for these specs that, let's say a firestone tech, can figure out? Any other suspension parts I may need?
Thanks
Green Crew #7
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Green Crew #7
Please donate and support EPHatch.com: Greenie Status, License Plate Frames, Banner & Small 'ephatch.com' Decals
Was your WTS/WTT/WTB closed? Please read the following: link 1 & link 2
From my understanding, a K24a2 block with a k20a2 head can accept up to 45* of VTC http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html.
But what about with the k24a1? Will the different pistons allow for a full 50* of VTC advance?
can someone pleasse post a link or give me some pointers on removing the rear latch cover and license plate holder thing? i remember seeing a DIY or something but i tried searching and can't find anything. do you have to take the plastic off and get at it from inside the hatch or is it done from the outside?
the trunk/license plate garnish is held on a couple of hexhead bolts and popclips. you will have to remove all the trunk/hatch plastic. it's 4 plastic panel/pieces. then you'll be able to remove the 10mm hex head bolts. finally the trunk license garnish can be popped off. are you planning to delete the rear 'h'?
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iirc, places like Firestone will not do what they consider a "custom" alignment. It's about one of the stupidest policies in the world, when considering something like the HFP suspension, which is factory, and comes with a factory alignment spec sheet, but apparently doesn't always show up in their fancy alignment system.
I've had that problem before. Had to explain to them very slowly and carefully that the "factory" settings they had in their database were, in fact, wrong for the suspension I was running.
After all that nonsense, and then walking out with my wheel still cocked to the right, I decided next time I'm going to a proper performance shop.
nah i've already got a JDM red H back there:) it's because i'm buffing and detailing the car today and want to get it off so i can get everything under and around it cleaned up good. i've already taken the hatch plastic off once for my wiper delete so i think i should be able to get it off again pretty easily. thanks for the help!
Suspension question
I didn't want to start a new thread, and search didn't give me anything exact.
So I'm on Koni Yellows and Ground Control sleeves w/ the 'for ep3' spring rates.
With my Koni's on full stiff, the rear's still seem to be rather bouncy..
I notice some people when going into drive way's and inclines in angles, they sometimes fall onto 3 wheels, while the 3 wheels don't seem to compress a whole lot.
When I back into my driveway at an angle, and at the point where my rear-right wheel is on the incline first, it seems to compress a whole lot.
Will getting stiffer spring rates in the rear, fix this?
WTS: 17" beater wheels 4 lug, Dell Studio 1555 Laptop, Volvo Lip, Nikon mount lenses, BuddyClub wing, and more. PM me.
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthr...110#post935110
Have you had the battery checked out? How old is the battery in the car?
make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals and they are tight and down on the post all the way
recently my heater stopped working (about 3 weeks ago give or take); the light which lights up the knob to select defrost/towards body/legs/ect. has lost power which leads me to believe its somewhat related. anything i should check that i might of missed? (no bad fuses)
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