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Thread: Relay question

  1. #1
    Murphy's bitch Twisted-X's Avatar
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    Relay question

    I have a relay that Nissan has used for ignition, rear defogger, and trailer brake light applications and I would like to use it to power my HID ballasts (so I don't burn out my stock wiring).
    My question is: since its been used for all these other high amperage applications, will it be able to handle the HID ballasts without melting down?
    I'd like to use it because its free, and because it it'll save on wiring because its got 2 switches.

    I've looked all over the internet, and theres no mention about this relay's amperage rating. Here's the part number:
    25230-c9963

    Its still in use in many Nissan vehicles, and has been replaced with:
    25230-7996A

  2. #2
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    Not an expert here but someone chime in if I'm wrong.

    What type of ballast do you have? Now a days, most of the kits are using the microballast which do not require separate power lines anymore since they pull power in short quick bursts to charge a cap before turning on the bulbs (which require high currents) then settle at a much lower current. The older ballasts sucked in huge amounts of current to start which causes the problem and burns out the stock wires.

    I've used both the old fat ballasts and new ones, and it's much easier to just go with the new ones. Needless to say, kits go for as low as 40$ and up to xx$

    kp

  3. #3
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    I use 2 universal 20 amp Bosche relays, a whole 6$ each. And I use the existing headlight/running light wiring to fire the relays.
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

  4. #4
    Rocking the k20a2.5 Deadphishy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingpuba View Post
    Not an expert here but someone chime in if I'm wrong.

    What type of ballast do you have? Now a days, most of the kits are using the microballast which do not require separate power lines anymore since they pull power in short quick bursts to charge a cap before turning on the bulbs (which require high currents) then settle at a much lower current. The older ballasts sucked in huge amounts of current to start which causes the problem and burns out the stock wires.

    I've used both the old fat ballasts and new ones, and it's much easier to just go with the new ones. Needless to say, kits go for as low as 40$ and up to xx$

    kp
    Very good point.
    Last edited by Princess; 01-29-2009 at 04:16 AM.

  5. #5
    Murphy's bitch Twisted-X's Avatar
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    Well, I got one of the single bulb 3g (microballast) kits from XenithXenons (vendor). Right on each ballast it says it will pull 6.5 amps max, where as a stock 55 watt bulb will pull 4 amps max. Will 2.5 amps burn out my headlight switch?

    I did manage to find out that the amperage rating for my dual switch relay is 25 amps, more than enough.

  6. #6
    ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ talonXracer's Avatar
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    The major issue with EVERY new Honda is the fact the Combo switch carries the entire headlight load by providing a ground for the lights. Hell, Honda even has had recalls over the issue because of combo switchs catching fire!!!!!
    ALL advice issued with this "Disclaimer"
    Tim "the Toolman" Taylor is my HERO ! ! !

    "Labor Unions are Domestic Terrorist orgainizations"

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