Free weezy!!!
let's see how long this lasts today. the old shifter base bushing thread is outdated, no pics. time for a redo, with pics and complete instructions.
get some crisper, smoother shifting feel for an hour's worth of work.
tools needed:
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 12mm deep socket
- 12mm shallow socket
- 3" socket extension x2
- swivel attachment
- large flathead
- not so large flathead
- light
- aluminum base bushings
- just a warning in advance, the confines of the shifter area are tight. if you have larger hands prepare to get them cut up. you do not want to drop anything in the space you're about to work inside so take your time and be precise.
- start by removing the shift know by turning it counter-clockwise.
- place two fingers into the shift boot, gripping the trim ring and pull up from the bottom to release the clips holding the lower dash/shift boot trim. the lower clips will release.
- the upper corners are very fragile. so be careful getting them to release. you can either tug on them, or slide a thin screwdriver in and pry them loose. I have done both in the past, but carefully every time.
- tada
- unhook the wires from the back of the hazard switch.
- with your 12mm socket, ratchet, and various extensions remove the 4 brass bolts at the base of the shifter. I started with the top bolts first, and since the top bolts are nice and tucked away I had to change my tools on each side.
top left- 12mm deep, both 3" extensions. top right- 12mm shallow, both 3" extensions, with the swivel between the extensions. the top bolts can be removed. I loosened the lower bolts, and left them in.
before:
after top bolts are removed:
- leave the bottom bolts in (just loose) and remove the upper bushings from the shifter base by taking your large screwdriver and inserting it into one of the bushing sleeves like so.
- now you're gonna pull the shifter base towards you, while you push in on the bushing sleeve. this will push the bushing sleeve out from the back.
- grab the bushing sleeve from behind the shifter base. pull the shifter base towards you to give your fingers a little more room once you have it and remove it. the bushing sleeves have a collar on the rear of them that sit in a groove on the rubber grommet part of the stock bushing.
- you'll be removing the rubber grommets from the back side of the shifter base as well. what's nice about rear removal is that you can push or pull on the shifter base to help you if you're having trouble in that tight space. if you think you're gonna drop any of this stuff, you can push on the shifter base to wedge it between the base and the frame it bolts to.
- with your smaller flathead screwdriver, you want to pry the grommet into the hole and remove it from behind.
- grab it from behind the base and remove them both, each on the top.
- onto the lower bolts. I was able to use my 12mm deep and both extensions on both lower bolts. space is more limited than on the upper bolts. again, don't drop anything. remove the bolts, then the sleeves, then the grommets just like the uppers. all bolts/bushings removed:
- bye bye
- the new shifter base bushings were a breeze to install. here's a way to smooth it out for you. get all four bolts ready by placing one aluminum shifter base bushing on each bolt. place them on your dash vent. attach one 3" extension to your 12mm deep socket.
the little collars on the new bushings will face each other, so put them on the right way like in the picture.
- starting with the lower bushings, I kept pressure on the shifter as I slid a bushing down from the top and into place. to be exact, I slid it until I could fit my smaller flathead into the opening, then released the shifter and moved it into place with the screwdriver. when it was at the right spot, I reapplied pressure and removed the screwdriver. I quickly grabbed a bolt and tossed it in, then grabbed my 12mm deep/3" extension and tightened it until it had no more toward/away slack in it. repeat this on the other side. then I snugged them hand tight.
lower bolts and bushings:
- same as the lower bolts, but you will be sliding them up from the bottom like so.
position them with the screwdriver while putting pressure on the shifter to wedge them in and keep them from falling into the abyss of the shifter area.
- once you have the first bolt started, tighten about 3/4 of the way in, then do the other side. you'll need more room with the upper bolts. when you're tightening the upper bolts, wiggle the shifter to ensure the new bushings are properly seated in the shifter base.
- torque all 4 bolts to 16 ft/lb.
after
- before you start putting the dash back together, run through the gears to ensure everything's fine before proceeding.
- reattach your hazard switch connection and place the lower dash/shift boot trim panel over the shift lever and clip it into place starting with the top. both top corners should snap into place before the lower clips.
- reinstall the shift knob by spinning it onto the shift lever by turning it clockwise.
Nice write up J! I'll be utilizing both the base and cable DIY's when 'part install day' comes around in the spring. Can't wait!
AkA EX FULL-RACE EP3
LOL wtf?!
Anyway, again, great write-up! Glad someone could take the time to post one with good pics! Hopefully this will answer a lot of questions.
Great write up!!!
I think its safe to say that you could also just use some washers. As long as you tighten everything on straight i see no reason why it would be any different.
-Rob
nice write up..like the new aggresive feeling?
Great write up thanks for the pictures, thumbs up!
excellent write up, very deteailed imo
i am also excited to do this! i have put off my bushing kit and short shifter for years now -_______-
Has anybody did this and the cable bushings? If so how's the results
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