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  1. #1
    Registered User Rasy's Avatar
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    Trying to diagnose this sound:

    Near stock A3 (ESMM Inserts) making some noise near the valve cover/block on the passenger side. The noise is closer to the pulleys, but seems internal. Also read how there are cam galling issues on these engines - haven't taken off the valve cover yet to check though.

    109K miles, up to service on everything like oil, belt change, transmission fluid, except for the valve clearance checks which should be done at 110K according to the manual - could that be it?

    Also, I have been using 5W-20, and read bad things about it being too thin, especially during the Texas summer heat, so now I'm switching to 5W-30.

    Here's a video of it, it's not constant, and you have to kind of listen to the intervals closely. It's not the high-clicking. It's more noticable towards the end:


  2. #2
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    Sounds like injectors to me to be honest. Also, it sounds like you filmed this in a garage or enlcosed area so the echoing is really blocking the noise if it is there. I would try getting another video outside and in a quiet location.

    Other than that, I think you car sounds pretty normal to me.

    I hope you don't truly have a problem!

  3. #3
    Registered User Rasy's Avatar
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    I haven't looked at injectors before, is that easy to do?

    I inspected all four spark plugs and they looked normal with a slight brown to it. I replaced them as a set with Denso plugs before about 3 1/2 years ago, so about 30k or so miles on them.

    I won't rule it out just yet though. I'll have to re-videotape it since I did shoot it in my garage, but I'm about to go out of town for a week riding in someone else's car. I can follow yours and further suggestions then.

    The best way to describe the sound in the video after I start the car is to imagine a low-medium pulsating tone of hacking up a spit with your mouth open, haha.

  4. #4
    Murphy's bitch Twisted-X's Avatar
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    I could definitely hear it at 720p resolution. It sounds to me exactly like what the water pump sounded like on my old 4 cyl. Chevy when the bearing went bad. It did get louder towards the front of the car, but I'm not sure that helps you at all.

    I would take the belt off and start spinning things to see if they are loose or "grindy".
    Anyone know if the idler or tensioner pulley bearing would make this noise when they go bad?
    Last edited by Twisted-X; 06-25-2011 at 03:21 PM.

  5. #5
    Registered User USAF EP3's Avatar
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    Sorry, I didn't elaborate when I mentioned injectors. I meant that the rhythmic ticking noise is injectors which is normal.

    As for the sound you described, I would go with Twisted-X on that one. Although after listening to the video 3 more times, I can't hear it.

    It also doesn't help my hearing that I constantly work around aircraft jet engines and generators lol.

  6. #6
    Registered User Rasy's Avatar
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    USAF, fair enough lol. I suppose irreparable hearing damage does contribute to a certain lack of hearing :p.

    Twisted, I was actually thinking that - it sounds like it's coming from that area. I just replaced my AC compressor two weeks ago, but it made the sound before I took out the old one, so I know it's not that.

    Will keep you guys updated. Keep those ideas coming guys.

  7. #7
    Registered User Rasy's Avatar
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    Here's an update:

    It turned out to be the water pump. The bearings were bad to be exact. I replaced it with the OEM one and installed with minor issues. Some tips:

    - The manual says to remove the crank pulley to access the water pump. Even with a 1/2" breaker bar and a 5' cheater pipe, I couldn't get it loose. Also tried the starter trick, nothing. I had taken it to an Acura dealership where a friend just loosened it with an air impact gun (1200 lbs. of torque!), and re-tightened it to a modest 75 lbs. so I could get it off at home.
    - Remove the Idler and the auto-tensioner pulleys, it'll make accessing the top three water pump bracket bolts much easier.
    - Two of the bottom water pump bracket bolts (bottom, and bottom-left) were easy, but the bottom-right was a pain. Make sure you have a small enough 1/4" ratchet and small hands that can navigate such a tight space.
    - It's a good time to change out the coolant (never done mine until now at 109K), and I used the OEM 50/50 Type 2 Coolant. It was this nice, unexpected blue. The old one was pretty clean and green, so I suppose Honda did a good job with engineering their coolant.

  8. #8
    hAh HaH! Tnhatch03's Avatar
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    glad you got it figured out!

    i just listened to the video and i was having a hard time hearing the noise you were describing as well.
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  9. #9
    Registered User Rasy's Avatar
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    The more I watch the video, the harder it is to tell where the sound is coming from. I should have recorded it when it got worse.

    I do want to say for anyone approaching 100K miles, to inspect their water pump should there be a metal grinding noise from the bearings going out, as a possible source.

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