Thinking about doing a K24A1 Swap...

[Ba82Ep3]

ok, we will end this now.

You are right, i have not swapped a K24 myself, i am stating what i have been told and read on here. I am fine with being corrected if something i say is not accurate information. This is after all a forum where people come to discuss our interests.

On the other hand I have much experience with motor swaps with other vehicles and wrenching in general. I know a thing or two about what is involved with undertaking such projects because i have done them before.

And hey, within the next year i will be "walking the path" so if have some inaccurate information then now is the time for me to find that out. Not when i have my car disassembled on my lift.

On that note, i apologize for taking this as far is it went.

Seriously... no need to aplogize. I guess one of my pet peeves is being the recipient of correct partial or just flat out inaccurate info. Not just here, but other sites as well. One of the things i do love about this site is it IS EP specific... so there is a higher chance someone has done what you wanna do... and he/shes either done it right OR wrong... both being a learning lesson for all interested. THAT is really why i pressed the swap issue. I too have swapped many an engine... not all k series... and not all hondas. General wrenching skills are also abundant round my way. So im there with ya... and certainly arent challenging your abilities by any means. But, even as often as the questions may be asked, it is up to all of us to try and provide accurate information.... just like we wanted when we originally had 5 posts, and thought a VAFC controller was a good purchase for our EP.

I hope you do swap a k24... you wont regret it. And contrary to what you may think about these past few interactions... if you asked, i would be one right under the hood helping you turn them wrenches. Its about the cars... and the people. And all the fun in between...

[davisj3537]

Seriously... no need to aplogize. I guess one of my pet peeves is being the recipient of correct partial or just flat out inaccurate info. Not just here, but other sites as well. One of the things i do love about this site is it IS EP specific... so there is a higher chance someone has done what you wanna do... and he/shes either done it right OR wrong... both being a learning lesson for all interested. THAT is really why i pressed the swap issue. I too have swapped many an engine... not all k series... and not all hondas. General wrenching skills are also abundant round my way. So im there with ya... and certainly arent challenging your abilities by any means. But, even as often as the questions may be asked, it is up to all of us to try and provide accurate information.... just like we wanted when we originally had 5 posts, and thought a VAFC controller was a good purchase for our EP.

I hope you do swap a k24... you wont regret it. And contrary to what you may think about these past few interactions... if you asked, i would be one right under the hood helping you turn them wrenches. Its about the cars... and the people. And all the fun in between...

He is not kidding...he helped me turn a few wrenches under my hood...ok it was between the sheets but whatever. I'm saying he doesn't mind helping out

[talonXracer]

Motor mounts have absolutely no impact on actual wheel hop what-so-ever!

Wheel hop is generated excusively at the tire/pavement contact point and is affected by suspension spring rates, both front and rear and tire traction.

With the stock mounts what you have is the header banging the swaybar and thump of the stock squishy mounts bottoming out. To keep the ESmm inserts from ripping you must apply some of the bushing grease used on their suspension bushings, use some and they will never rip.

end of story.

[bchaney]

So what's the benefit of a motor mount upgrade?

[Ba82Ep3]

He is not kidding...he helped me turn a few wrenches under my hood...ok it was between the sheets but whatever. I'm saying he doesn't mind helping out

Doug... im not gonna say i disagree with you... but i will say engine mounts that move too much store and release energy (TQ) like a spring. If the mounts are too soft, when you apply the throttle the engine moves in the mounts and can then cause the engine to "pop" back like an undamped spring on a strut. This can break traction as the driveline compensates for the motion that was stored or "wound up" in the mounts. This CAN be controlled by the driver. If it isnt, then wheel hop IS a common result.

Harder mounts allow for quicker and more efficient shifting/use of power than any soft mount... or ESMM damped mount. It gives the driver a more connected feel with the driveline and its response to throttle input. This is moreso noticeable on NA cars than Turbo cars.

Turbo cars arent usually driven like an NA car... so a REASONABLY driven turbo car will store the energy in the mounts and be less likely to "pop" back (through driver control). Most turbo drivers will shift easier than the average NA guy, knowing they have power in the pull of the gear (why most turbo guys like the longer gear trannies)... while modulating the throttle to avoid wheelspin... versus banging out each gear as efficiently/fast as possible to get the most out of each gear.

Again, driver is primary here. As far as NA goes... harder engine mounts and a competent driver will net a faster time slip (strip or twisties), giving everything else is identical by comparison.

And this wont apply to AWD. AWD is actully a little better with a softer mount. It saves axles/drivetrain parts and will let you launch a little harder.

When i tracked my EP with the ESMM's, and i was static in a specific gear through a corner (lets just say 3rd), i could stab the throttle and feel the movement in the mounts cause a delay in feel of where the RPM's were. Rev matching through a corner (downshifting) could be tricky and somewhat of a guesstimation at times, being several hundred RPM off. This feel is very similar to the mental adjustment you have to make if you ever manually shift an older tiptronic style transmission. You have to shift a few hundred RPM before your desired shiftpoint, to compensate for the shifting delay. (older Mercedes AMG paddle shift trannies (E55 AMG comes to mind) were like this.. needing almost 500RPM of "notice" to get your desired shift, or it would shift FOR you as a safety) The more TQ the car has, revmatching (upshifting) through a corner can be seriously affected with soft mounts... the result either being wheelspin by adding too much throttle, or too little throttle causing you to "tuck in" too close to your mark through the turn. The much firmer engine mounts ARE harder on the axles/driveline, but throttle modulation and traction control are much easier IMO... if you are in sync with your car.