The distance between the output of the gearbox and the backside of the steering knuckle is a fixed distance. It never changes. However, since the track of the Type-R is 15mm wider than other Honda models, that distance is 7.5mm longer on each side. So if you use an axle that is 7.5mm too short than it won't properly seat on both sides. Since you're putting an axle nut on the end that goes into the hub that side shouldn't move at all; the side that goes into the gearbox isn't mechanically fastened so in an extreme case that could be the side that pops out... while you're driving...
Hondafreak (christian) has the DC5 lower control arms and he is still using his OEM Ep axles without any issues. He also tracks his car and still no issues. The only thing that really changes is the camber you gain ~ -1 of camber.
-Rob
[QUOTE=NxSpeedJunkieNx;34687484]
Someone on clubsrsx showed me this. It's from the Acura TL Type S. He said they run the same caliper as the ITR Brembo even tho it isn't labeled.
So tomorrow we'll see if my search for that damn brake retainer will come to an end.
Last edited by spartan; 09-29-2010 at 05:29 PM.
If that works it will be awesome.
My Type-S BMC and BB will be here today. I'm tentatively swapping my suspension starting next Thurs night pending weather. I'll post up any details or issues I run into.
Just the LCA's with StopTechs and stock Ep axles. The brakes have nothing to do with the LCA's they just simply bolt to the knuckle which is exactly the same as a 5 lug Ep3 or a RSX. the only difference is the spindle hole, but the caliper mounting spots are the same hence the reason why you can bolt up RSX-s calipers on an Ep.
Last edited by 27rocks; 09-30-2010 at 08:37 AM.
-Rob
Update:
Back done. Everything bolts up fine. The DC5R rear sway makes the EP3 one look like a straw. There will def be some rubbing with the back wheels. Don't have it on the ground yet but some negative camber/fender rolling will be necessary.
Flywheel getting cut now. Front reassembly tomorrow.
Update 2:
My driver's side axle is too short. I'm assuming it's not an ITR axle cause as soon as I thread the axle nut on the inner CY pops out. Gotta call and get it swapped out for the right one.
The ITR front sway bar is 23mm. I could not find bushings at the Honda dealer that are that size. Had to order a set of ES bushings. They'll be in Tuesday morn.
Watch out for the two AC lines that bolt to the subframe if you're taking that out.
Looks like there might be rubbing on the front too. I'll have to see how the alignment goes and how the new suspension (HFP) is.
When i bought my front sway they came with new bushings. I hope they work.
POST PICS!!!
You don't need it. But it's engineered to work with the front one and if you compare the USDM and ITR rear the ITR one is double the thickness.
I'm using OEM DC5 ITR wheels
When you replace the clutch you should have the flywheel resurfaced. It provide the best possible mating surface. Cost me $20 at the local shop.
If they are OEM the size should be printed on the side of the bushings. Stock is 25.4mm. I measured ITR at 23mm and ordered those from ES.
Should be getting replacement axle tomorrow.
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